Saturday, November 1, 2008

León to Villadangos del Páramo - 20 K

My friend Pat Cooke sent me an email the other day, saying that my blog may influence others to take this trip, because it all sounds so quaint - and there's no denying this is quite an adventure, but make no mistake, there are some un-fun times on the Camino.
Yes indeed.

This day was one of them.
Although the walk was short - 20k - it seemed long because it ran alongside the Hwy, and it was like we had never left the city. Industrial, not so clean or pleasant to walk through. A very cold damp day, but fortunately, no rain until we were almost at our Albergue.

This Albergue had no heat whatsoever - Nada! - and it actually was colder inside then out.
We sat huddled in the main area with blankets around us, then decided to go to whatever local bar we could find and hang out as long as we could, before we had to go to bed.
When we got back around 8:00 PM, the woman who looks after the Albergue had brought some wood (6 sticks) for this makeshift fireplace, made from an oil drum with a chimney. It wasn't anywhere near the beds, so there was no chance we would actually have warmth in our sleeping quarters. (I should explain that the people who look after the Albergue are volunteers and they don't live there or, I guess, there would be some heat).

We - all 8 pilgrims in total - huddled around this oil drum with blankets around us (the Albergue did have quite a few blankets), and Julian commented that we were like hobos, on the road with all our worldly goods and leaning into an oil drum fire. We discussed the idea of burning the chairs after the wood was gone, and then someone suggested we roast a pilgrim.
There was a Spanish pilgrim who really kept to himself, so we thought he wouldn't be missed, plus, based on the Spanish diet, he is probably about 60% olive oil, which would provide a warm glowing fire all night.

As it turned out, I went to bed with most of my clothes on, my newly purchased winter toque and my gloves, and I piled on as many blankets as I could stand the weight of. I managed to fall asleep eventually, but I had to keep a blanket pulled over my face as well, because it was just so cold. (You do understand there is no showers or clothes washing happening these days.)
Don't think about it too much - I try not to.

Yes, a most un-fun day.

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