Not a bad walk today.
Started out in a light rain, but not as cold as it has been. Walked with Edith (Swiss lady) and Julian, a young law student graduate from Quebec.
Everyone uses a walking stick here - or trekking poles - and I noticed Julian had adapted a hockey stick for himself - how Canadian. Some people use sticks they have dragged from the bush, others carved ones, or special in some way
Or some, like myself, have one or two trekking poles. I brought two, but it is more comfortable to just use one.
20 K seemed pretty easy today after two 27 k days. My shin was staring to hurt yesterday so I'm glad that it wasn't so long.
I'm really annoyed with myself, and I don't understand how it happened, but I have managed to lose my knife, fork and spoon (they were attached together). Not the end of the world, but a little inconvenient.
Lost my gloves as well, which I had to replace because it's way too cold to walk barehanded. With so few worldly goods, you'd think I could manage things better. I'm sure I'll have the organization thing nailed down by the time I have to come home.
I'm here in León, and Edith and I decided to share a room in a monastery converted to a hotel . It is not too expensive and has a bath tub and heat, so quite luxurious from our point of view.
I'm just sending this off from an Internet cafe, as there was no Internet at the hotel, and then I plan on looking around the town, checking out the cathedral and then, maybe a tapas bar tonight for dinner, rather than a pilgrim's menu.
Re: recent posts.
Sandra, Roger and Owen; Thanks so much for your note and congratulations on the new cafe. I can't wait to be there with you.
Lucia; Yes I have thought of California weather a lot these days. The thing is; it would be way too hot to do this walk in the Summer. September is probably ideal.
Andrea; Loved your picture on the blog. How's school going?
Dee; I'm pretty sure the missing underwear is drying on a clothesline somewhere.
By the way, if any of you are reading my blog, but can't figure out how to post a comment and would like to, just send me a personal email, as I check my email as well each day.
I would love to hear from you.
lynne.guthrie@rogers.com
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Ledigos to Bercianos -27K- to Mansilla de las Mulas
The Albergue in Ledigros was very old and set around a courtyard, so you had to go outside to access any of the other buildings - the bar/restaurant/store, the dorm, the washrooms and the kitchen - and let me tell you people, it was cold, cold, cold.
The kitchen was ancient and had some type of huge clay oven, along with an old gas range. Some of the Pilgrims make their own dinner every night, so it is useful to have these facilities, regardless of how ancient.
An Australian family who are doing the Camino - Dad, Mom and teenage daughter - are vegetarians. So they are pretty well forced to prepare their own meals, as the Spanish ones are so heavy on meat. I notice they always cook pasta.
The pilgrim meal at this Albergue was bread, wine, soup and 2 huge pork chops with fries.
Dessert is an offer of a piece of fruit - orange, apple or banana - or an individual container of yogurt.
The meals are often pretty late - 8.30 pm this night - so imagine how hungry we are.
Everyone at the table was German, so I just dozed off into my wine. This Albergue actually had a bathtub, but no one wanted to take their clothes off, even for a quick shower, let alone a bath. The dorm had a few ancient radiators, which they turned on after we all went to bed. I still wear most of my clothes to bed these days and there is not a lot of hand washing going on, so it's not pretty.
Long walk on the Mesata the next day.
It had turned super cold, with a strong North wind coming from the Pyrenees. It blew at us from the side, rather than from behind, where we would have been glad for a little push.
As we passed through Sahagún towards the edge of town, I encountered a shepherd with a huge flock of sheep and 2 herding dogs waiting for a red light to turn green. Then, he carried on down the street with his flock - his dogs keeping everything in line. Amazing to watch, but they all behaved like they had done this before.
The Albergue in Bercianos is a very old exterior of straw and mud, but with stucco on the inside. I'm so cold I thought I'd DIE.
The thing is, after 27 k, you feel cold anyways, so this was not good.
The host, however, of this Albergue - Isadoro - was very sweet and laid out the evening for us.
We would all prepare dinner together (food supplied by the Albergure), and later, the Padre (Father) would drop by, and there would be a little service for us. There were only 3 pilgrims - Edith from Switzerland, William from Venezuela and Moi.
We had a good meal of salad, potato and chorizo soup, and boiled eggs and - do I need to mention - always bread and wine.
Dessert was a big bowl of walnuts and apples.
Just as we started to eat, the Padre showed up - a young man in jeans and hoodie - and he joined us for dinner. The villages have so few inhabitants now that he looks after 9 villages, mostly older people I think, judging by the few people we see.
Towards the end of the meal a local couple showed up with their homemade liqueurs and pastries. We managed to have a great evening, despite the fact that I am handicapped by my inability to communicate with them the way I would like to.
The Padre never got around to having the service for us.
Isadoro took pity on us and moved us to a smallest room, away from the main dorm.
Still no heat of course, but with the usual amount of clothing and extra blankets, it was fine. Isadoro also served us some breakfast, next morning, of coffee, bread and Jam. This Albergue does not charge, but runs on donations, so this was especially nice of him.
He closes this one up Nov 1, which is a good thing, as there would be no surviving this place in the winter!
Bercianos to Mansilla de la Mulas
Another long walk today - cold, cold - and the Albergue here is just as cold - and again, all facilities are outside, surrounding a court yard. It's like having a shower outside in November.
One of the Pilgrims who is ahead of us, called to say he ran into snow on the Camino.
I'm not looking forward to that.
The kitchen was ancient and had some type of huge clay oven, along with an old gas range. Some of the Pilgrims make their own dinner every night, so it is useful to have these facilities, regardless of how ancient.
An Australian family who are doing the Camino - Dad, Mom and teenage daughter - are vegetarians. So they are pretty well forced to prepare their own meals, as the Spanish ones are so heavy on meat. I notice they always cook pasta.
The pilgrim meal at this Albergue was bread, wine, soup and 2 huge pork chops with fries.
Dessert is an offer of a piece of fruit - orange, apple or banana - or an individual container of yogurt.
The meals are often pretty late - 8.30 pm this night - so imagine how hungry we are.
Everyone at the table was German, so I just dozed off into my wine. This Albergue actually had a bathtub, but no one wanted to take their clothes off, even for a quick shower, let alone a bath. The dorm had a few ancient radiators, which they turned on after we all went to bed. I still wear most of my clothes to bed these days and there is not a lot of hand washing going on, so it's not pretty.
Long walk on the Mesata the next day.
It had turned super cold, with a strong North wind coming from the Pyrenees. It blew at us from the side, rather than from behind, where we would have been glad for a little push.
As we passed through Sahagún towards the edge of town, I encountered a shepherd with a huge flock of sheep and 2 herding dogs waiting for a red light to turn green. Then, he carried on down the street with his flock - his dogs keeping everything in line. Amazing to watch, but they all behaved like they had done this before.
The Albergue in Bercianos is a very old exterior of straw and mud, but with stucco on the inside. I'm so cold I thought I'd DIE.
The thing is, after 27 k, you feel cold anyways, so this was not good.
The host, however, of this Albergue - Isadoro - was very sweet and laid out the evening for us.
We would all prepare dinner together (food supplied by the Albergure), and later, the Padre (Father) would drop by, and there would be a little service for us. There were only 3 pilgrims - Edith from Switzerland, William from Venezuela and Moi.
We had a good meal of salad, potato and chorizo soup, and boiled eggs and - do I need to mention - always bread and wine.
Dessert was a big bowl of walnuts and apples.
Just as we started to eat, the Padre showed up - a young man in jeans and hoodie - and he joined us for dinner. The villages have so few inhabitants now that he looks after 9 villages, mostly older people I think, judging by the few people we see.
Towards the end of the meal a local couple showed up with their homemade liqueurs and pastries. We managed to have a great evening, despite the fact that I am handicapped by my inability to communicate with them the way I would like to.
The Padre never got around to having the service for us.
Isadoro took pity on us and moved us to a smallest room, away from the main dorm.
Still no heat of course, but with the usual amount of clothing and extra blankets, it was fine. Isadoro also served us some breakfast, next morning, of coffee, bread and Jam. This Albergue does not charge, but runs on donations, so this was especially nice of him.
He closes this one up Nov 1, which is a good thing, as there would be no surviving this place in the winter!
Bercianos to Mansilla de la Mulas
Another long walk today - cold, cold - and the Albergue here is just as cold - and again, all facilities are outside, surrounding a court yard. It's like having a shower outside in November.
One of the Pilgrims who is ahead of us, called to say he ran into snow on the Camino.
I'm not looking forward to that.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Carrionde los Condes to Ledigos - 23.5K
We wrapped up the evening last night in the monastery with the nuns serving us a pasta dinner they had prepared for us. It was really good and, after we had more songs, and they blessed each one of us for our continued journey to Santiago, I went to the evening mass - and the grandeur of the church was amazing (sorry, think I might have mentioned this already).
The convent was really cold.
Even with my sleeping bag and a blanket they supplied, I had to put several sweaters on - and socks - in order to be warm enough to sleep - but eventually, I did.
No snorers in the dorm so that is always a plus.
Today dawned bright and sunny, and it looked like it might be another hot one, but it turned into a cool fall day and good for walking.
The first stretch was almost 18 K, without any villages where you could stop at a bar or cafe. The route is not always broken up the way you would like, of course, but ideally, you don't have more than 10 k to go before some civilization appears.
I managed to find a bit of shade to have a break and a bite and, as there was a mound of discarded clothing in this spot, I had a comfortable place to sit.
It's not uncommon to see clothing left on the route when people are trying to lighten their load, however this was almost an entire wardrobe. The clothing looked quite clean as well, so must have been a recent discard by some desperate and tired pilgrim.
After 18 k there was a bar where everyone had stopped for a drink and a rest.
It started raining while we were there, so many of us decided to shorten our day and just go to the next Albergue, which was only 6 k away. It's a really old place and feels cold as well, so I hope there is a supply of blankets.
By the way I have a small confession.
It seemed unPilgrim-like, so I hesitated to mention it before (I guess you could call it a sin of omission), but I think full disclosure is expected on this blog.
It has to do with my second day in Burgos.
I did spend most of the day there, but I actually started out in the morning and left the city - reluctantly. After walking about 7 K out of town, I just decided I had to go back and see the Cathedral, buy bandages and have one more bath.
I thought I could hitchhike back, but the pilgrim route often runs through fields and forests and not necessarily near a highway. I did see a hwy off in the distance and I just had to cross a field to get to it. It took some time to cross the field where, to my horror, I found that I was separated from the hwy by a barbed wire fence. Without giving it too much thought, I threw my backpack over the fence and then realized it would not be so easy for me to scale it. However after a few tries, I made it,
There were some Hwy workers I tried to communicate with re: hitchhiking back into Burgos, but they indicated I would not get picked up. So I walked to a bar on the hwy and took a taxi back into town, went to the hotel, asked for my room back, and immediately took a bath.
So there you have it!
If you consider I walked out of the city twice, I can't really call it a cheat, as I more than did the distance.
By the way, my missing pair of underwear turned up.
Everything I have is black, so it's hard to distinguish socks from underwear from a hat - until you put them on, of course. And then, if you can't tell the difference, you've definitely walked too far that day.
Thom and Patti: so great to hear from you. Thanks for checking in. Who is that picture of, Thom?
Off for a beer in the local bar/grocery store.
More Meseta tomorrow.
The convent was really cold.
Even with my sleeping bag and a blanket they supplied, I had to put several sweaters on - and socks - in order to be warm enough to sleep - but eventually, I did.
No snorers in the dorm so that is always a plus.
Today dawned bright and sunny, and it looked like it might be another hot one, but it turned into a cool fall day and good for walking.
The first stretch was almost 18 K, without any villages where you could stop at a bar or cafe. The route is not always broken up the way you would like, of course, but ideally, you don't have more than 10 k to go before some civilization appears.
I managed to find a bit of shade to have a break and a bite and, as there was a mound of discarded clothing in this spot, I had a comfortable place to sit.
It's not uncommon to see clothing left on the route when people are trying to lighten their load, however this was almost an entire wardrobe. The clothing looked quite clean as well, so must have been a recent discard by some desperate and tired pilgrim.
After 18 k there was a bar where everyone had stopped for a drink and a rest.
It started raining while we were there, so many of us decided to shorten our day and just go to the next Albergue, which was only 6 k away. It's a really old place and feels cold as well, so I hope there is a supply of blankets.
By the way I have a small confession.
It seemed unPilgrim-like, so I hesitated to mention it before (I guess you could call it a sin of omission), but I think full disclosure is expected on this blog.
It has to do with my second day in Burgos.
I did spend most of the day there, but I actually started out in the morning and left the city - reluctantly. After walking about 7 K out of town, I just decided I had to go back and see the Cathedral, buy bandages and have one more bath.
I thought I could hitchhike back, but the pilgrim route often runs through fields and forests and not necessarily near a highway. I did see a hwy off in the distance and I just had to cross a field to get to it. It took some time to cross the field where, to my horror, I found that I was separated from the hwy by a barbed wire fence. Without giving it too much thought, I threw my backpack over the fence and then realized it would not be so easy for me to scale it. However after a few tries, I made it,
There were some Hwy workers I tried to communicate with re: hitchhiking back into Burgos, but they indicated I would not get picked up. So I walked to a bar on the hwy and took a taxi back into town, went to the hotel, asked for my room back, and immediately took a bath.
So there you have it!
If you consider I walked out of the city twice, I can't really call it a cheat, as I more than did the distance.
By the way, my missing pair of underwear turned up.
Everything I have is black, so it's hard to distinguish socks from underwear from a hat - until you put them on, of course. And then, if you can't tell the difference, you've definitely walked too far that day.
Thom and Patti: so great to hear from you. Thanks for checking in. Who is that picture of, Thom?
Off for a beer in the local bar/grocery store.
More Meseta tomorrow.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Boadillo Del Camino to Carrion de los Condes - 25 K
Had a nice stay at the private Albergue in Boadillo. I think I mentioned how nice it was.
They also served dinner, which isn't that usual for an Albergue, but a few do.
All the Pilgrims sat at a large table and it was the usual international mix - Swiss, German, Korean, Japanese, Spanish - and me. Interestingly, the German and Swiss usually speak some English, but not so much the Spanish. One young Spanish guy, who has taken me under his wing, speaks English quite well. When I asked him how he learned to speak English, he said that every year at the end of school, his grandmother always bought him a gift, and one year he asked for English lessons. Commendable, I think.
Chiavi, as he is called, has helped ensure that I can always order my first meal of the day in Spanish - Cafe con leche e basso e tostada. (I have no idea how this is spelled, but I manage to get my point across.) Which means that I get a nice big tumbler of cafe au lait and toast.
The toast here is always prepared on a grill, I think, and basted with olive oil. It takes about the same length of time to prepare as it does to roast a leg of chicken. It's either pieces of baguette or one thick piece of white toast (like Wonder Bread, but much denser), and you always get butter and jam with it. In some places it is really good, and I fear I'll be making toast in the frying pan when I get home, with liberal dashes of olive oil.
Today's walk started out well.
We moved to daylight savings last night, so it was light when we left today and the sky was bright blue - the air cool. Once again I had most all of my clothes on, and by noon we were sweltering. It went up to about 27C today and it was hot hot hot for walking.
The Mesata is relentless in this regard as there is no shade anywhere. I found the afternoon very tough, and one of the German guys and I decided we would prepare a petition for the King of Spain to see if he could have more bars and cafes along this route.
On an entirely different topic, and not wanting to appear indelicate, I am now down to one pair of underwear. I can't fathom how they disappear, but while the downside is washing every night - and wearing damp, or no, underwear if they don't dry - the upside, of course, is less to carry.
Today's Albergue is a convent attached to the back of a church and run by the nuns. While it was blazing hot outside today, the Albergue is freezing on the inside. They do have blankets though, so we should be OK.
The nuns had a little sing-song at 6.00 pm tonight and handed us song sheets (in Spanish, so we could sing along, if we chose). One of the nuns played the guitar and led us in song although, in truth, her voice was so wonderful - she was so animated and beautiful - that people were just transfixed. I felt like I was in a rerun of the Sound of Music.
Even the nuns look stylish here: robes and scarves of beautiful soft material and wonderful leather, lace-up shoes. I went to the mass for the experience and to see the interior of the church. You just can't believe the magnificence of the interior -and again - in such a small hamlet.
The nuns are preparing some food for us, so gotta run.
Trying to gear myself up for tomorrow - 18 k with no villages - and more Mesata.
Wendy, thanks for catching up with my blog. So good to hear from you.
They also served dinner, which isn't that usual for an Albergue, but a few do.
All the Pilgrims sat at a large table and it was the usual international mix - Swiss, German, Korean, Japanese, Spanish - and me. Interestingly, the German and Swiss usually speak some English, but not so much the Spanish. One young Spanish guy, who has taken me under his wing, speaks English quite well. When I asked him how he learned to speak English, he said that every year at the end of school, his grandmother always bought him a gift, and one year he asked for English lessons. Commendable, I think.
Chiavi, as he is called, has helped ensure that I can always order my first meal of the day in Spanish - Cafe con leche e basso e tostada. (I have no idea how this is spelled, but I manage to get my point across.) Which means that I get a nice big tumbler of cafe au lait and toast.
The toast here is always prepared on a grill, I think, and basted with olive oil. It takes about the same length of time to prepare as it does to roast a leg of chicken. It's either pieces of baguette or one thick piece of white toast (like Wonder Bread, but much denser), and you always get butter and jam with it. In some places it is really good, and I fear I'll be making toast in the frying pan when I get home, with liberal dashes of olive oil.
Today's walk started out well.
We moved to daylight savings last night, so it was light when we left today and the sky was bright blue - the air cool. Once again I had most all of my clothes on, and by noon we were sweltering. It went up to about 27C today and it was hot hot hot for walking.
The Mesata is relentless in this regard as there is no shade anywhere. I found the afternoon very tough, and one of the German guys and I decided we would prepare a petition for the King of Spain to see if he could have more bars and cafes along this route.
On an entirely different topic, and not wanting to appear indelicate, I am now down to one pair of underwear. I can't fathom how they disappear, but while the downside is washing every night - and wearing damp, or no, underwear if they don't dry - the upside, of course, is less to carry.
Today's Albergue is a convent attached to the back of a church and run by the nuns. While it was blazing hot outside today, the Albergue is freezing on the inside. They do have blankets though, so we should be OK.
The nuns had a little sing-song at 6.00 pm tonight and handed us song sheets (in Spanish, so we could sing along, if we chose). One of the nuns played the guitar and led us in song although, in truth, her voice was so wonderful - she was so animated and beautiful - that people were just transfixed. I felt like I was in a rerun of the Sound of Music.
Even the nuns look stylish here: robes and scarves of beautiful soft material and wonderful leather, lace-up shoes. I went to the mass for the experience and to see the interior of the church. You just can't believe the magnificence of the interior -and again - in such a small hamlet.
The nuns are preparing some food for us, so gotta run.
Trying to gear myself up for tomorrow - 18 k with no villages - and more Mesata.
Wendy, thanks for catching up with my blog. So good to hear from you.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino - 29K
Great day for walking. My energy level was high and my feet are doing surprisingly well.
Who knew that continuous walking on sore feet was the cure, as opposed to resting them?
I hardly have any wrappings on them now, but always am sure to coat them well in Vaseline.
The day started out very cool again, but sunny and, again, I was able to shed several layers of clothing as the day wore on.
Passed a beautiful, but crumbling monastery today and, as always, several incredibly old and wonderful churches.
Each village, regardless of how small, has a fantastic old church at its centre.
I think the expression, "The Spanish turned their silver into stone" refers to these Christian structures.
The Meseta is very dry, but manages to look beautiful - framed by brilliant blue skies and snow capped Pyrenees off in the distance.
I walked today, on and off, with a few people I met at the Albergue last night: a few young guys - German, Japanese and American - and a lady from Switzerland who has already walked 1400 kil on the German and French Caminos, as part of her 3 month trek.
She and I decided to share a room tonight in a private Albergue for a little more comfort, rather than the municipal one. Slightly more money, but still very reasonable. The municipal ones run from 3 to 6 euro a night and the private ones around 10 euro. No bathtub or our own shower, but a nice room with twin beds in a gorgeous setting.
By the way, I'm still thinking of the bathtub in the hotel in Burgos. Gloriously deep, and sloped at the back, so your head and shoulders rest perfectly. I fell asleep each time I took a bath. Plus, the best part is the tap is on the side, as opposed to the end, so you don't even have to lean forward to add hot water. (Note to Steve: how would you feel about ripping out our tub and replacing it with ones of these?)
I noticed my pants are a little looser today, so I have discovered yet a new diet whereby you can eat and drink all you want, as long as you walk 800K. Do you think the 800k diet could be the new North American craze?
Great to see some new posts on my blog.
Gene, I'm sure you know that one of the reasons I came to Spain was because of your descriptions after your trip. Thanks for your words of encouragement.
Well James, you could have knocked me over with a feather! I thought you never did this sort of thing? I'm so glad you did - and so good to hear from you!
Vive, I'm glad to hear you bought walking poles. What trek are we going on?
Susan, I always love your comments. Thanks for sticking with me.
Jackie & Rob, thanks so much for your note on my blog. Glad to hear you are on Vac. I can almost remember what a cocktail tastes like. I'm not complaining though - great Spanish wine and lots of it, every night.
Cheryl; yes I could have used your calm and reasoned approach re: the money thing -and, in fact, I tried to think how people like yourself would handle the situation - but truthfully, I was too far gone to care.
I only check my most current blog post for comments, so if you do sign on, please comment under the most current posting. I would hate to miss any of you.
I hope to do 28 K tomorrow. It's still quite flat, so no reason why I can't.
Well, my clothes actually dried on the line today, as the sun was so warm, so no pinning them to my backpack tomorrow.
You know you're off to a good day when you don't have to do that.
Who knew that continuous walking on sore feet was the cure, as opposed to resting them?
I hardly have any wrappings on them now, but always am sure to coat them well in Vaseline.
The day started out very cool again, but sunny and, again, I was able to shed several layers of clothing as the day wore on.
Passed a beautiful, but crumbling monastery today and, as always, several incredibly old and wonderful churches.
Each village, regardless of how small, has a fantastic old church at its centre.
I think the expression, "The Spanish turned their silver into stone" refers to these Christian structures.
The Meseta is very dry, but manages to look beautiful - framed by brilliant blue skies and snow capped Pyrenees off in the distance.
I walked today, on and off, with a few people I met at the Albergue last night: a few young guys - German, Japanese and American - and a lady from Switzerland who has already walked 1400 kil on the German and French Caminos, as part of her 3 month trek.
She and I decided to share a room tonight in a private Albergue for a little more comfort, rather than the municipal one. Slightly more money, but still very reasonable. The municipal ones run from 3 to 6 euro a night and the private ones around 10 euro. No bathtub or our own shower, but a nice room with twin beds in a gorgeous setting.
By the way, I'm still thinking of the bathtub in the hotel in Burgos. Gloriously deep, and sloped at the back, so your head and shoulders rest perfectly. I fell asleep each time I took a bath. Plus, the best part is the tap is on the side, as opposed to the end, so you don't even have to lean forward to add hot water. (Note to Steve: how would you feel about ripping out our tub and replacing it with ones of these?)
I noticed my pants are a little looser today, so I have discovered yet a new diet whereby you can eat and drink all you want, as long as you walk 800K. Do you think the 800k diet could be the new North American craze?
Great to see some new posts on my blog.
Gene, I'm sure you know that one of the reasons I came to Spain was because of your descriptions after your trip. Thanks for your words of encouragement.
Well James, you could have knocked me over with a feather! I thought you never did this sort of thing? I'm so glad you did - and so good to hear from you!
Vive, I'm glad to hear you bought walking poles. What trek are we going on?
Susan, I always love your comments. Thanks for sticking with me.
Jackie & Rob, thanks so much for your note on my blog. Glad to hear you are on Vac. I can almost remember what a cocktail tastes like. I'm not complaining though - great Spanish wine and lots of it, every night.
Cheryl; yes I could have used your calm and reasoned approach re: the money thing -and, in fact, I tried to think how people like yourself would handle the situation - but truthfully, I was too far gone to care.
I only check my most current blog post for comments, so if you do sign on, please comment under the most current posting. I would hate to miss any of you.
I hope to do 28 K tomorrow. It's still quite flat, so no reason why I can't.
Well, my clothes actually dried on the line today, as the sun was so warm, so no pinning them to my backpack tomorrow.
You know you're off to a good day when you don't have to do that.
Friday, October 24, 2008
Burgos to Hontanas - 34 K
On the road again ...
I think I may have mentioned how much I loved Burgos.
I am currently in love with all things Spanish - the people, their warmth & hospitality, the food, the architecture & scenery, the clothing & shoes, the olive oil and the wine.
(Note to self: forget about the French lessons and just take Spanish.)
I love their cultural habits as well.
They all come out at night with their friends and families. The streets are absolutely jammed at 8.30 pm - babies, kids, parents, couples - all clearly enjoying themselves.
No one is sitting at home in front of the boob tube watching reruns of Law & Order.
This city is filled with monuments - the Cathedral is breathtaking - and a beautiful river runs through the city, lined with chestnut trees and parks.
(Don't panic Steve. I haven't checked out real estate yet.)
It would be great to come back some day and just be a tourist.
Right now, I'm getting back into pilgrim mode.
Very cold when I started out this morning. I wore everything I had and was wishing I had a winter hat. However, by early afternoon it had warmed up and I started shedding stuff.
Walked alone all day, but it was bright and sunny, so it was good to be alone with my thoughts.
I saw no other pilgrims until I was close to my resting spot.
The walk was flat as well, so although it was a long walk, it was OK. I felt I could go further today, but my feet have a separate identity from me and they are not happy with much beyond 27 K. Need to keep them happy.
Adios for now.
I think I may have mentioned how much I loved Burgos.
I am currently in love with all things Spanish - the people, their warmth & hospitality, the food, the architecture & scenery, the clothing & shoes, the olive oil and the wine.
(Note to self: forget about the French lessons and just take Spanish.)
I love their cultural habits as well.
They all come out at night with their friends and families. The streets are absolutely jammed at 8.30 pm - babies, kids, parents, couples - all clearly enjoying themselves.
No one is sitting at home in front of the boob tube watching reruns of Law & Order.
This city is filled with monuments - the Cathedral is breathtaking - and a beautiful river runs through the city, lined with chestnut trees and parks.
(Don't panic Steve. I haven't checked out real estate yet.)
It would be great to come back some day and just be a tourist.
Right now, I'm getting back into pilgrim mode.
Very cold when I started out this morning. I wore everything I had and was wishing I had a winter hat. However, by early afternoon it had warmed up and I started shedding stuff.
Walked alone all day, but it was bright and sunny, so it was good to be alone with my thoughts.
I saw no other pilgrims until I was close to my resting spot.
The walk was flat as well, so although it was a long walk, it was OK. I felt I could go further today, but my feet have a separate identity from me and they are not happy with much beyond 27 K. Need to keep them happy.
Adios for now.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
In Burgos
It's a very bad feeling to be in a strange country where you do not speak the language, you have no money and you are not sure how, or if, you are going to get any.
In addition, the telephones give very little instruction re: international operators, so I don't quite have them figured out.
Since it was too late in the day to do anything about the money thing, I called home through the hotel - at great expense - and Steve said that the Royal Bank had a big computer failure, and no one could access money from Interac for a portion of the day. That seemed a reasonable explanation, so I had my second luxurious bath of the day and slept reasonably well.
Early in the morning I ran out to a bank machine, but again to my horror, it was rejected, as well as my Visa. Now I'm in freak out mode! I can't even check out of my hotel as planned, as I can't pay them.
There was a small coffee shop across the street from a bank in my immediate area, so I used a few of my dwindling dineros to have a coffee and wait for the bank to open. It opened fairly early and I went right over and tried to explain my situation, although we could barely understand each other. A woman named Ana took me under her wing and let me call Visa. Visa explained that my 5 digit PIN would not work in Europe, although interestingly it had up until now.
I don't know what type of bank this was, but they had no money (no tellers, as Ana explained), so she walked me down the street to another bank where my Visa was not cleared - again rejected.
It took a long time for this bank to determine that Visa would not authorize any money, and Ana waited with me the entire time (over an hour - I don't see this ever happening at home). Ana suggested I go to the "International Bank of Spain" about 6 blocks away.
When I arrived there, I told my story, as best I could, to the 2 gentlemen that manned this bank. They started off the same way every one else did by saying, "No problemo", took my info and asked me to wait while they checked it all out. I waited well over 2 hours as they made various calls and let me use both their phone and personal computer. Finally, they said that Visa would not accept my card. As they also were a Western Union agent, I decided I had no choice but to call Steve and have him wire me some money. As it is 6 hours earlier in Canada he tried to do it online, but it was rejected, so he had to wait for a Western Union agent to open and go there in person. Because the bank I was waiting in closed at 2.00 pm I would not be able to receive my money there.
Steve figured out another Western Union agent I could go to later that day. Steve, as always, was so helpful and reassuring and went to no end of trouble to help get this resolved.
When I showed up at the Western Union office, where they opened at 4.30 pm with, I might add, no expectation that I would ever get any money, I wasn't disappointed. They said they had no money and that I would have to go the Post Office.
I really wish I could say that I saw the humour in this, but I was having a major melt down!
I finally found the Post office, and by 6.00 pm, I was solvent again.
To paraphrase Bogart in Casablanca, "We'll always have Western Union."
On the way back to the hotel, I ran into the British guys who were staying another night, so I agreed to meet them for dinner at 8.30 pm. That's early here, I might add. People have dinner much later. I had a fantastic meal - knowing that I could actually pay for it helped; a plus.
I was starved, as I hadn't eaten all day.
We had a great evening. One of the guys deals in Chinese and Japanese antiques and has travelled the world many times. They were interesting and fun dinner companions and we stayed until they closed the restaurant down at 12.30.
In the morning I made the decision to stay one more day in Burgos.
It had stopped raining, the sun was out and I wanted to check out the beautiful Cathedral and stock up on supplies - blister bandages, etc. - as it will be quite awhile until I get to a major centre again.
In addition, the telephones give very little instruction re: international operators, so I don't quite have them figured out.
Since it was too late in the day to do anything about the money thing, I called home through the hotel - at great expense - and Steve said that the Royal Bank had a big computer failure, and no one could access money from Interac for a portion of the day. That seemed a reasonable explanation, so I had my second luxurious bath of the day and slept reasonably well.
Early in the morning I ran out to a bank machine, but again to my horror, it was rejected, as well as my Visa. Now I'm in freak out mode! I can't even check out of my hotel as planned, as I can't pay them.
There was a small coffee shop across the street from a bank in my immediate area, so I used a few of my dwindling dineros to have a coffee and wait for the bank to open. It opened fairly early and I went right over and tried to explain my situation, although we could barely understand each other. A woman named Ana took me under her wing and let me call Visa. Visa explained that my 5 digit PIN would not work in Europe, although interestingly it had up until now.
I don't know what type of bank this was, but they had no money (no tellers, as Ana explained), so she walked me down the street to another bank where my Visa was not cleared - again rejected.
It took a long time for this bank to determine that Visa would not authorize any money, and Ana waited with me the entire time (over an hour - I don't see this ever happening at home). Ana suggested I go to the "International Bank of Spain" about 6 blocks away.
When I arrived there, I told my story, as best I could, to the 2 gentlemen that manned this bank. They started off the same way every one else did by saying, "No problemo", took my info and asked me to wait while they checked it all out. I waited well over 2 hours as they made various calls and let me use both their phone and personal computer. Finally, they said that Visa would not accept my card. As they also were a Western Union agent, I decided I had no choice but to call Steve and have him wire me some money. As it is 6 hours earlier in Canada he tried to do it online, but it was rejected, so he had to wait for a Western Union agent to open and go there in person. Because the bank I was waiting in closed at 2.00 pm I would not be able to receive my money there.
Steve figured out another Western Union agent I could go to later that day. Steve, as always, was so helpful and reassuring and went to no end of trouble to help get this resolved.
When I showed up at the Western Union office, where they opened at 4.30 pm with, I might add, no expectation that I would ever get any money, I wasn't disappointed. They said they had no money and that I would have to go the Post Office.
I really wish I could say that I saw the humour in this, but I was having a major melt down!
I finally found the Post office, and by 6.00 pm, I was solvent again.
To paraphrase Bogart in Casablanca, "We'll always have Western Union."
On the way back to the hotel, I ran into the British guys who were staying another night, so I agreed to meet them for dinner at 8.30 pm. That's early here, I might add. People have dinner much later. I had a fantastic meal - knowing that I could actually pay for it helped; a plus.
I was starved, as I hadn't eaten all day.
We had a great evening. One of the guys deals in Chinese and Japanese antiques and has travelled the world many times. They were interesting and fun dinner companions and we stayed until they closed the restaurant down at 12.30.
In the morning I made the decision to stay one more day in Burgos.
It had stopped raining, the sun was out and I wanted to check out the beautiful Cathedral and stock up on supplies - blister bandages, etc. - as it will be quite awhile until I get to a major centre again.
I also wanted to go back to the 2 banks that had been so kind and helpful, and thank them again. When I got to the Bank of Spain where I had spent most of the day, Manuel showed me a Thank You note Steve had written him - in Spanish, no less - thanking him for trying to help me. He was clearly bowled over by Steve's efforts and was wondering how to reply, as he could not correspond in English. Very nice, Steve!!!
Burgos is beautiful, beautiful!
Wonderful buildings, monuments and fantastic shops of all sorts. I positively drooled over the shoes and clothes in the shop windows.
The people here dress very stylishly, which I really appreciate and always love to see. I wanted so many things (most un-pilgrim like) but of of course, there is no taking on any additional weight.
One more bath tonight - then back to being a Pilgrim.
Burgos is beautiful, beautiful!
Wonderful buildings, monuments and fantastic shops of all sorts. I positively drooled over the shoes and clothes in the shop windows.
The people here dress very stylishly, which I really appreciate and always love to see. I wanted so many things (most un-pilgrim like) but of of course, there is no taking on any additional weight.
One more bath tonight - then back to being a Pilgrim.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos - 33K
I've become a dirty girl!
There is no point washing socks every day because they never dry in one day, and if it's raining, they never dry - period. So I've decided to wear the same pair every day and wash them as infrequently as possible. When they start to stand up on their own, like a pair of boots, then I may wash them.
The day started with a steep climb for quite awhile, and before long, it started to rain. In fact it rained most of the day. After a coffee stop at the usual bar/restaurant/grocery store, I walked for the rest of the day with a couple of British chaps I had met the night before.
On a pleasant day it's always OK to walk alone, and I really enjoy it, but it's nice to have company on a cold and rainy day. We walked to the outskirts of Burgos 33k, then, per our Pilgrim's guide, they suggested that a bus should be taken to the city centre, rather than walking another 7 or 8 K.
Since we had been walking for about 9 hours, we all felt OK about that. After getting off at city centre and knowing that the Albergue was at the far end of town, the three of us decided that we would book into a convenient hotel for the night. There was a nice one within walking distance and, as off season rates were really good, the decision was made.
It's recommended on this trip that, at least once, you treat yourself to some nice accommodation, so this seemed the ideal time - as we were freezing and wet. The Brits had decide to end the walk here, as one of them had developed foot problems and they planned on being tourists for a day or two. One of them very kindly bestowed his Spanish/English dictionary on me as a parting gift.
In the hotel, a huge deep bathtub awaited me - and big fluffy towels - what bliss!!
I had arranged to meet the boys for dinner and ran out to a bank machine, as I was very low on cash and no one was taking my Visa.
Much to my horror my Interact card was denied. I ran frantically from cash machine to cash machine with the same result. They all said my PIN was invalid. It was the same as with my Visa.
Needless to say, I could not relax much during dinner, as I was down to my last 20 euro.
I've booked into a hotel I cannot pay for and I have no money for anything else.
Stay tuned for next installment ...
There is no point washing socks every day because they never dry in one day, and if it's raining, they never dry - period. So I've decided to wear the same pair every day and wash them as infrequently as possible. When they start to stand up on their own, like a pair of boots, then I may wash them.
The day started with a steep climb for quite awhile, and before long, it started to rain. In fact it rained most of the day. After a coffee stop at the usual bar/restaurant/grocery store, I walked for the rest of the day with a couple of British chaps I had met the night before.
On a pleasant day it's always OK to walk alone, and I really enjoy it, but it's nice to have company on a cold and rainy day. We walked to the outskirts of Burgos 33k, then, per our Pilgrim's guide, they suggested that a bus should be taken to the city centre, rather than walking another 7 or 8 K.
Since we had been walking for about 9 hours, we all felt OK about that. After getting off at city centre and knowing that the Albergue was at the far end of town, the three of us decided that we would book into a convenient hotel for the night. There was a nice one within walking distance and, as off season rates were really good, the decision was made.
It's recommended on this trip that, at least once, you treat yourself to some nice accommodation, so this seemed the ideal time - as we were freezing and wet. The Brits had decide to end the walk here, as one of them had developed foot problems and they planned on being tourists for a day or two. One of them very kindly bestowed his Spanish/English dictionary on me as a parting gift.
In the hotel, a huge deep bathtub awaited me - and big fluffy towels - what bliss!!
I had arranged to meet the boys for dinner and ran out to a bank machine, as I was very low on cash and no one was taking my Visa.
Much to my horror my Interact card was denied. I ran frantically from cash machine to cash machine with the same result. They all said my PIN was invalid. It was the same as with my Visa.
Needless to say, I could not relax much during dinner, as I was down to my last 20 euro.
I've booked into a hotel I cannot pay for and I have no money for anything else.
Stay tuned for next installment ...
Redecilla to Villafranca Montes de Oca
Approximately 25 K.
Continuing from yesterday ...
Matjaz caught up with me sometime after coffee and we had a very pleasant day - a nice walk after the fog cleared off.
We have left the lush wine and olive country and are heading into what is called the Meseta. It's quite flat and dry and higher in elevation, so starting to get cooler. Along the route we discovered a note from Hanno, tucked in the back of a bench and addressed to all of us, letting us know where he hoped to stop for the night. It was about 40 k away, so we knew we were not going to catch up with him.
As Matjaz and I walked I couldn't help noticing how neat and smart he looked. Smart knee socks, clothing almost looked pressed and the Slovenian flag sticking jauntily out of his backpack. I don.t know what it is, but my backpack has taken on a life if its own. Everyone Else's looks so neat and compact, but mine looks like I am carrying some alien life form that is trying to break out. It´s lopsided and bulging, and dirty - and its wearer looks much the same. I lost my new comb that replaced the brush I lost, so that will give you some idea.
I decided to stop at Villafranca after 25 k (the next rest stop was another 12 K) but Matjaz decided to go on, and we said Adios.
A word on foot care.
Your feet are, hands down, the most valuable equipment you bring on this kind of trip, and maintenance is essential. I have already seen quite a few people drop out because of some kind of foot injury. Let me say up front that, despite my talk of blisters and sores, my feet are not painful when I walk. A tad tender perhaps, in some spots, and a little sore when I go beyond 25k, but all in all - OK.
My feet are so well swaddled every morning that they know not to complain. Numerous toes are wrapped in moleskin; a couple have blister bandages on them; 2 toes are encased in some foamy cushiony thing my foot the Dr gave me, and more moleskin is slapped on both sides of my feet. When everything is wrapped up you smear on a generous coat of Vaseline to prevent further blistering, and pull on your socks while trying to keep any of the bandaging from coming off.
(When, you ask, is this broad going to start having fun?)
Sandra, thanks so much for your note and Owen's picture and his comments.
I often think of him on my walks and the Christmas cookies we are going to make together on my return.
This walk is all your doing you know.
It all started with the book you gave me for Christmas, "What the Psychic told the Pilgrim."
Thanks so much for your posts. Love to get them!
Continuing from yesterday ...
Matjaz caught up with me sometime after coffee and we had a very pleasant day - a nice walk after the fog cleared off.
We have left the lush wine and olive country and are heading into what is called the Meseta. It's quite flat and dry and higher in elevation, so starting to get cooler. Along the route we discovered a note from Hanno, tucked in the back of a bench and addressed to all of us, letting us know where he hoped to stop for the night. It was about 40 k away, so we knew we were not going to catch up with him.
As Matjaz and I walked I couldn't help noticing how neat and smart he looked. Smart knee socks, clothing almost looked pressed and the Slovenian flag sticking jauntily out of his backpack. I don.t know what it is, but my backpack has taken on a life if its own. Everyone Else's looks so neat and compact, but mine looks like I am carrying some alien life form that is trying to break out. It´s lopsided and bulging, and dirty - and its wearer looks much the same. I lost my new comb that replaced the brush I lost, so that will give you some idea.
I decided to stop at Villafranca after 25 k (the next rest stop was another 12 K) but Matjaz decided to go on, and we said Adios.
A word on foot care.
Your feet are, hands down, the most valuable equipment you bring on this kind of trip, and maintenance is essential. I have already seen quite a few people drop out because of some kind of foot injury. Let me say up front that, despite my talk of blisters and sores, my feet are not painful when I walk. A tad tender perhaps, in some spots, and a little sore when I go beyond 25k, but all in all - OK.
My feet are so well swaddled every morning that they know not to complain. Numerous toes are wrapped in moleskin; a couple have blister bandages on them; 2 toes are encased in some foamy cushiony thing my foot the Dr gave me, and more moleskin is slapped on both sides of my feet. When everything is wrapped up you smear on a generous coat of Vaseline to prevent further blistering, and pull on your socks while trying to keep any of the bandaging from coming off.
(When, you ask, is this broad going to start having fun?)
Sandra, thanks so much for your note and Owen's picture and his comments.
I often think of him on my walks and the Christmas cookies we are going to make together on my return.
This walk is all your doing you know.
It all started with the book you gave me for Christmas, "What the Psychic told the Pilgrim."
Thanks so much for your posts. Love to get them!
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Azofra to Redecilla del Camino - 27 K
Sorry for running behind - we were in very rural areas for the last 2 nights with no Internet.
I may run a few days behind with my news, as I won't get much time on the Internet tonight.
(I'm sending this from a pricey Internet cafe in Burgos - walked about 32 k in the pouring rain today. I'll fill that part in on my blog tomorrow.)
I should mention we had a great group meal at the Albergue in Azofra. The man who ran the place organized it all and it was a lot of fun - about 16 of us - all different nationalities.
We had bread and copious amounts of great Rioja wine, several salads and a local soup called Sopa de Ajo (Garlic Soup), or soup of the poor. It sounds weird but it was very tasty - garlic, chunks of bread, and egg.
Next morning, I headed off with Hanno from Austria - a good trekking companion. We had lots to talk about and the 27 k went by quite quickly and comfortably.
The Albergue at our resting place in Redecilla was small , but comfortable, but nothing at all in this little hamlet and we weren't even sure we would be able to find a meal.
However the local bar/restaurant/grocery store served us a meal of salad, potatoes fried in tons of oil (but very tasty) and a thin slice of beef. We were all so hungry it tasted great.
No non-smoking rules here.
The older couple that owned the place waited on us with cigarettes dangling from their mouths. Not a turn off really. My rebellious nature appreciates the fact that there is still a corner of the earth where the morality and health police are not in charge.
My dinner companions were Kristina and Lina - 2 Swedish coast guards - and Hanno and Matjaz from Slovenia. We were all in the same small dorm together as well, so kind of fun - like big kids at camp.
Hanno had decide he would leave at 5.00 the next morning and the Swedish girls at 5.30. I didn't feel like rushing in the morning, but whenever you say goodbye to new friends you never know if you will see them on the Camino again. Matjaz said he was going to sleep in, so I started out on my own around 6.30. However, even my miner's flashlight would not cut through the fog and dark. I have to admit, I lost my nerve and decided to wait until it was a little better. The fog never abated, so eventually I went ahead anyway.
In about 2 k I had a chance for my first morning coffee - a big highlight of everyone's morning.
I had noticed that many people ordered their coffee in a large tumbler instead of a cup and one of the Spanish guys had told me the word for glass. Unfortunately, I didn't quite get it right and when I tried to order it, the waitress smiled and looked at the other patrons, who smiled as well. It appears, from what my Spanish friends told me later, when I described what I had said, that I asked for my coffee in a boot.
I can't believe I didn't bring a Spanish dictionary with me. What was I thinking?
(Note to self; after mastering French, sign up for Spanish lessons.)
To be continued - time's up on the Internet.
I may run a few days behind with my news, as I won't get much time on the Internet tonight.
(I'm sending this from a pricey Internet cafe in Burgos - walked about 32 k in the pouring rain today. I'll fill that part in on my blog tomorrow.)
I should mention we had a great group meal at the Albergue in Azofra. The man who ran the place organized it all and it was a lot of fun - about 16 of us - all different nationalities.
We had bread and copious amounts of great Rioja wine, several salads and a local soup called Sopa de Ajo (Garlic Soup), or soup of the poor. It sounds weird but it was very tasty - garlic, chunks of bread, and egg.
Next morning, I headed off with Hanno from Austria - a good trekking companion. We had lots to talk about and the 27 k went by quite quickly and comfortably.
The Albergue at our resting place in Redecilla was small , but comfortable, but nothing at all in this little hamlet and we weren't even sure we would be able to find a meal.
However the local bar/restaurant/grocery store served us a meal of salad, potatoes fried in tons of oil (but very tasty) and a thin slice of beef. We were all so hungry it tasted great.
No non-smoking rules here.
The older couple that owned the place waited on us with cigarettes dangling from their mouths. Not a turn off really. My rebellious nature appreciates the fact that there is still a corner of the earth where the morality and health police are not in charge.
My dinner companions were Kristina and Lina - 2 Swedish coast guards - and Hanno and Matjaz from Slovenia. We were all in the same small dorm together as well, so kind of fun - like big kids at camp.
Hanno had decide he would leave at 5.00 the next morning and the Swedish girls at 5.30. I didn't feel like rushing in the morning, but whenever you say goodbye to new friends you never know if you will see them on the Camino again. Matjaz said he was going to sleep in, so I started out on my own around 6.30. However, even my miner's flashlight would not cut through the fog and dark. I have to admit, I lost my nerve and decided to wait until it was a little better. The fog never abated, so eventually I went ahead anyway.
In about 2 k I had a chance for my first morning coffee - a big highlight of everyone's morning.
I had noticed that many people ordered their coffee in a large tumbler instead of a cup and one of the Spanish guys had told me the word for glass. Unfortunately, I didn't quite get it right and when I tried to order it, the waitress smiled and looked at the other patrons, who smiled as well. It appears, from what my Spanish friends told me later, when I described what I had said, that I asked for my coffee in a boot.
I can't believe I didn't bring a Spanish dictionary with me. What was I thinking?
(Note to self; after mastering French, sign up for Spanish lessons.)
To be continued - time's up on the Internet.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Navarrete to Azofra
I think about 23K - pretty flat, so an easy day.
Not the best sleep last night - a lot of young people partied later than they are supposed to (everyone has to be in bed by 10.00).
I partied with them for awhile, but left them singing songs as I went off to bed. Interestingly, they were all Italian, French, and German, but all their songs were English songs. The last
one I remember hearing was Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah" - one of my favourites - kinda nice.
Left this morning in the dark, on my own, in a heavy rainfall.
The worst part about the rain is my fear of falling on these beautiful cobblestone streets, now turned treacherous and, of course, most of them manage to slope steeply leaving town.
I contemplated throwing my backpack down ahead of me to make my descent less scary, but I managed to make it unscathed.
It's a real drag to put on rain pants, rain jacket and rain cover for your knapsack, especially as, despite the fact they are supposed to be breathable, you sweat like crazy.
The day turned nice around noon.
Walked alone today and through more grape groves - beautiful as always. There is a lot of harvesting going on now.
The Albergue in Azofra is really nice - just 2 to a room with twin beds, a pillow and a bedspread. I feel like I'm at the Ritz!
Plus, they even supply clothes pegs for our wash, (I usually have to use the safety pins I brought).
The showers are usually shared by both men and women ( just one at a time), but it's quite tricky getting changed. You have to carry the clothing you are going to change into, into the shower with you. There is usually a hook you can hang everything on, but it's perilously close to the shower, so you always hope you can get out without everything being drenched.
I meant to mention before, that the only other Canadians I have run into are all French Canadian - some of them had just completed the French Camino ( also about 700K), and are now doing the Spanish Camino.
As for the posting yesterday - gosh Vive, I laughed out loud at your Biblical version of my walk. I guess I'm making this sound too grim. What can I say? I'm really enjoying myself, but I'm at a loss to explain why.
And Lucia, at the rate I'm losing stuff there won't be any clothes left to burn.
Going to look for a nice dinner somewhere.
Love to all!!
Not the best sleep last night - a lot of young people partied later than they are supposed to (everyone has to be in bed by 10.00).
I partied with them for awhile, but left them singing songs as I went off to bed. Interestingly, they were all Italian, French, and German, but all their songs were English songs. The last
one I remember hearing was Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah" - one of my favourites - kinda nice.
Left this morning in the dark, on my own, in a heavy rainfall.
The worst part about the rain is my fear of falling on these beautiful cobblestone streets, now turned treacherous and, of course, most of them manage to slope steeply leaving town.
I contemplated throwing my backpack down ahead of me to make my descent less scary, but I managed to make it unscathed.
It's a real drag to put on rain pants, rain jacket and rain cover for your knapsack, especially as, despite the fact they are supposed to be breathable, you sweat like crazy.
The day turned nice around noon.
Walked alone today and through more grape groves - beautiful as always. There is a lot of harvesting going on now.
The Albergue in Azofra is really nice - just 2 to a room with twin beds, a pillow and a bedspread. I feel like I'm at the Ritz!
Plus, they even supply clothes pegs for our wash, (I usually have to use the safety pins I brought).
The showers are usually shared by both men and women ( just one at a time), but it's quite tricky getting changed. You have to carry the clothing you are going to change into, into the shower with you. There is usually a hook you can hang everything on, but it's perilously close to the shower, so you always hope you can get out without everything being drenched.
I meant to mention before, that the only other Canadians I have run into are all French Canadian - some of them had just completed the French Camino ( also about 700K), and are now doing the Spanish Camino.
As for the posting yesterday - gosh Vive, I laughed out loud at your Biblical version of my walk. I guess I'm making this sound too grim. What can I say? I'm really enjoying myself, but I'm at a loss to explain why.
And Lucia, at the rate I'm losing stuff there won't be any clothes left to burn.
Going to look for a nice dinner somewhere.
Love to all!!
Friday, October 17, 2008
Viana to Navarrete...only 22k
Have I thanked all of you for posting words of encouragement on my blog? In any case it can't be said enough how much I enjoy hearing from many of you. I'm sorry I can't reply personally to each of you but I don't get to use the Internet for very long in the evenings, as there is often a line up.
Pretty good walk today - 22 k - would be a breeze without a backpack. I believe mine is heavier than ever.
Pretty good walk today - 22 k - would be a breeze without a backpack. I believe mine is heavier than ever.
Somehow I have overloaded myself with snacks.
When I couldn't find the almonds and raisins I wanted, I bought a box of granola bars. Before I could eat any of them, I'd found the almonds and the a huge bag of enormous raisins that must weigh 2 lbs. Haven't eaten any of them either, as there is such a great selection of Tapas to sample. I'll have to start distributing this stuff to other pilgrims.
Also had to buy some detergent for my clothes, that is too heavy. I left home with something called camp soap, which I have used up. And, in in case, it was totally useless. You often have to hand wash your stuff in cold water, and my white blouse and white bra are now completely grey. Not attractive pinned to the back of my backpack whilst drying.
And speaking of grey, I've found out what colour my hair really is! Jesus, I'll really be a fright by the time I get on that plane to come home in November.
Today I walked through part of the Rioja region, where that fabulous Rioja wine is produced.
Today I walked through part of the Rioja region, where that fabulous Rioja wine is produced.
It took a long time today to walk through the city of Logroño, a sprawling industrial city and the centre of the Rioja wine industry. The rest of the route wound through a bird santuary and vineyards.
I arrived early today in Navarrete, and managed to land a bottom bunk in the Albergue - and they have pillows!!!!
While I was waiting for the Albergue to open I had a glass of Rioja wine (1 euro) and some amazing tapas.
Apparently they grow mushrooms in caves in this area, so the tapas I had was the most delicious mushroom, roasted or something with great seasoning, doused in olive oil and served on crusty warm bread. So Good!!
By the way, for those of you who know how directionally challenged I am, you must wonder how I am getting from A to B,
The Camino is quite well marked with either a scallop shell (a symbol worn by ancient pilgrims), or a yellow arrow painted on sidewalks, trees, rocks, even the side of houses. Sometimes it gets a little confusing when passing through a city or town, but you only need say to a local person, "Camino?" and they point the way.
By the way Dee, I love your comments on Figs. It's good to know how great a food source they are, given how many I have eaten.
Thanks for your post today Lucia. It was good to hear that you are not bored as yet with all my ramblings.
Wendy, I really look forward to walking with you and Joan again in the Fall. I may have to continue wearing my backpack - It's become part of me.
Love your photo, Laurie and your great note. I don't think I'll be shipping anything home - I'm resigned to my load - if only my feet would adjust. I have blisters on my feet where I didn't think it was possible to get them.
And Vivie, Cheryl, Pat & Susan, I look forward to boring you with more Camion stories on my return.
Lizzy and Leroy, thanks for your encouragement as well.
And Ayden, congratulations on starting your own company. I'm looking forward to hearing all about it on my return.
Thanks to my good friend and Camino coach Darlene who made sure I got on that plane out of Toronto,
And Steve, who resets my blog info and posts it in a readable fashion and takes the time every day to send me a funny and encouraging email. Gracias.
Nice to hear from you Joseph. Thanks for your note.
I'm off for another glass of wine.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Los Arcos to Viana
Stayed in Los Arcos last night - nice Albergue - only 4 bunk beds to a room, and no snorers.
Heaven!
A nice line outside for drying clothes in a sunny spot, so things actually dried the same day.
Today I had the option of travelling 20k or 30k, and although I felt up for the 30k, the village at the 20k mark was so beautiful, I wanted to take some time to be a tourist. A bit of a tough decision as all my companions were doing the 30k.
The thing is; I have the time, and most nights there isn't much opportunity to explore the wonderful medieval villages we rest in. So I think it was a good decision.
The walk today was great - a few hills naturally, lots of stones, but the scenery was so beautiful. There are many different wine regions in Spain and this is one of them - there were vineyards all around us and in the valleys below. We seemed to be walking on a high crest, so we could see for miles around. The weather is spectacular - somewhere between 18C to 22C.
I walked for part of the day with 2 sisters from France. We had a great time trying to understand each other - lots of fun (note to self; sign up for French classes when I return home.)
Had lunch in the shade of a vineyard with Thomas from Germany and Aude from Belgium. They both speak very good English. I feel embarrassed that I don't speak 2 languages, as most people here speak a minimum of 2.
We always share our lunches - today was chorizio (Spanish sausage), bread, cheese, tomato and some grapes, of course.
Viana is a beautiful town, founded in the 13th century and surrounded by high walls.
All of the villages seem to have a village square where people gather, and there is usually a beautiful old working fountain as well, where thirsty pilgrims can replenish their water bottles.
Each region here has its own wine and, so far, they all seem to be fabulous.
I had 2 glasses today of the most divine stuff and it was about $1.00 a glass.
Heaven!
A nice line outside for drying clothes in a sunny spot, so things actually dried the same day.
Today I had the option of travelling 20k or 30k, and although I felt up for the 30k, the village at the 20k mark was so beautiful, I wanted to take some time to be a tourist. A bit of a tough decision as all my companions were doing the 30k.
The thing is; I have the time, and most nights there isn't much opportunity to explore the wonderful medieval villages we rest in. So I think it was a good decision.
The walk today was great - a few hills naturally, lots of stones, but the scenery was so beautiful. There are many different wine regions in Spain and this is one of them - there were vineyards all around us and in the valleys below. We seemed to be walking on a high crest, so we could see for miles around. The weather is spectacular - somewhere between 18C to 22C.
I walked for part of the day with 2 sisters from France. We had a great time trying to understand each other - lots of fun (note to self; sign up for French classes when I return home.)
Had lunch in the shade of a vineyard with Thomas from Germany and Aude from Belgium. They both speak very good English. I feel embarrassed that I don't speak 2 languages, as most people here speak a minimum of 2.
We always share our lunches - today was chorizio (Spanish sausage), bread, cheese, tomato and some grapes, of course.
Viana is a beautiful town, founded in the 13th century and surrounded by high walls.
All of the villages seem to have a village square where people gather, and there is usually a beautiful old working fountain as well, where thirsty pilgrims can replenish their water bottles.
Each region here has its own wine and, so far, they all seem to be fabulous.
I had 2 glasses today of the most divine stuff and it was about $1.00 a glass.
Yesterday we actually passed a wine fountain (yes, a tap with free wine, attached to the outside of a Bodega (winery), where pilgrims were invited to drink.
(See picture above.)
The Albergue is very nice here - the bunks are 3 layers high, but I was assigned a lower bunk -Oh joy!
There is something I enjoy so much about getting up each morning, putting on my too-heavy backpack and watching the sun rise over the land as I walk.
You have no responsibilities, no decisions to be made - no stressors.
You just have to put one foot in front of another until you reach your resting place for that day.
I truly understand why many people undertake this journey for religious or spiritual reasons.
(I wish I hadn't made so many pacts with the Devil whilst crossing the Pyrenees).
Perhaps, even I will find redemption before my time is up on the Camino.
Adios, for now.
You just have to put one foot in front of another until you reach your resting place for that day.
I truly understand why many people undertake this journey for religious or spiritual reasons.
(I wish I hadn't made so many pacts with the Devil whilst crossing the Pyrenees).
Perhaps, even I will find redemption before my time is up on the Camino.
Adios, for now.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Los Arcos
Sorry for the delay in posting new info, but as I mentioned earlier, sometimes I'm just too tired. Plus there is a fair bit to get organized at night.
There is always hand wash to do as you don't have many clothing items. For example 3 pairs of underwear and 3 pairs of socks were the recommended quantity.
I have managed to lose one pair of underwear, my hairbrush, and one of my water bottles. The reason for this is not my encroaching senility as I'm sure some of you are thinking, but rather it is due to the fact that in the morning, you sometimes have to pack everything in the dark if people are still sleeping. Everyone is usually kicked out by 8:00, but I like to leave early.
I may have to break down and buy a new brush, but everything is super expensive (euro), so I have tried to limit expenditures. The ones I have made have been expensive disasters.
For instance I realized I couldn't do any more going down hills without knee wraps, so I stopped at a pharmacy on the outskirts of Pamplona and bought a pair of knee wraps/supports at 26 euro for each one - that´s about $90 - I think I saw the same ones in the dollar store before I left home. I also managed to spend 10 euro on what I thought were blister bandages, but one of the Spanish women pointed out that they were for removing callouses.
My feet are actually not as painful as they were. but there is lots of doctoring at night, and all kinds of padding and bandaging in the morning. I'm not the only one - everyone does foot care at night.
So, evenings consist of taking a shower (first thing), then washing your clothes (there are little clothes lines in front of the balconies), writing in your journal (everyone seems to keep one) and repacking and organizing your backpack for the morning so you can make an early start - then going out for a meal with a group.
All stops on the Camino have places with a pilgrim menu - I think I may have mentioned that before. They are 3 courses, an appetizer of soup, spaghetti or salad, a main course of beef, chicken or fish - always with fries - no vegetable, and desert is yogurt or fruit or sometimes flan (creme caramel - sort-of) and wine and bread.
Sometimes if the Albergues have a kitchen, you can buy something and cook it. I haven't done that yet, but I will from time to time.
You also need to try and scout out a little store for supplies for the next day as you have to supply your own lunch or breakfast. And you don't usually find places on the road; plus you want to limit how long you stop.
It's hard to find the right stuff to take each day, unless you always want to eat bread and cheese. I try and rest every 2 hours for 10 minute and eat something, whether I feel like it or not.
Today was yogurt in the morning, some crackers with jam, more yogurt at my first stop, a can of sardines and some bread for lunch - with a little tomato. And for the third day in a row, all the fresh figs I could eat from trees by the road side - Yum!!
I was hoping to find raw almonds to snack on, as they are a great energy snack, but although they grow here, the ones in the supermarket are all heavily salted.
You can only buy food for one day at a time as it is crucial that you don't add any excess weight to your backpack.
Today I lunched under a tree with Jackie from Quebec, and Aude from Belgium. It was very hot today - about 23 C -and no shade.
I had very bad day earlier in the week (probably why you didn't hear from me).
It was raining slightly, which made the rough stony road so slippery. There was a lot of down hill over very rough stones, and my knees and toes were just screaming. It was so painful and scary as well, as the inclines were so steep. I fell 3 times. Fortunately I fell backwards in all cases, due to the weight of my pack, and it also cushioned my fall.
I'm trying very hard to just live in the moment on these long walks, enjoy the wonderful scenery, and quit saying to myself, "Are we there yet, are we there yet, are we there yet? ..." (very inappropriate pilgrim behaviour.)
I've even quit hoping that I get a lower bunk at night, because you just can't ask to change (pilgrims must be grateful for everything they get). I found this out when I was assigned a top bunk and asked if I could change to a lower.
Last night in the dorm, someone was snoring so loudly that a few people went out in the hall and slept on the floor. I have ear plugs for this, but for some strange reason, I feel like I can't breathe when I have them in (Yes, OK, I do know the difference between my nose and my ears.).
Today I am posting this from a place called Los Arcos.
I got in early enough today (2:00) that my laundry may have a hope of drying. Normally it doesn't dry overnight, so many people leave the inn in the morning with socks and underwear and T-shirts pinned to the back of their back packs so that that they can dry in the sun.
I have to go now and think about tomorrow's route. It can be either 30 k or 20 k.
I'll probably let my feet make the decision. Today was fairly easy walking, given that even when the guide book says it is flat, there is no such thing.
So far, so good!
There is always hand wash to do as you don't have many clothing items. For example 3 pairs of underwear and 3 pairs of socks were the recommended quantity.
I have managed to lose one pair of underwear, my hairbrush, and one of my water bottles. The reason for this is not my encroaching senility as I'm sure some of you are thinking, but rather it is due to the fact that in the morning, you sometimes have to pack everything in the dark if people are still sleeping. Everyone is usually kicked out by 8:00, but I like to leave early.
I may have to break down and buy a new brush, but everything is super expensive (euro), so I have tried to limit expenditures. The ones I have made have been expensive disasters.
For instance I realized I couldn't do any more going down hills without knee wraps, so I stopped at a pharmacy on the outskirts of Pamplona and bought a pair of knee wraps/supports at 26 euro for each one - that´s about $90 - I think I saw the same ones in the dollar store before I left home. I also managed to spend 10 euro on what I thought were blister bandages, but one of the Spanish women pointed out that they were for removing callouses.
My feet are actually not as painful as they were. but there is lots of doctoring at night, and all kinds of padding and bandaging in the morning. I'm not the only one - everyone does foot care at night.
So, evenings consist of taking a shower (first thing), then washing your clothes (there are little clothes lines in front of the balconies), writing in your journal (everyone seems to keep one) and repacking and organizing your backpack for the morning so you can make an early start - then going out for a meal with a group.
All stops on the Camino have places with a pilgrim menu - I think I may have mentioned that before. They are 3 courses, an appetizer of soup, spaghetti or salad, a main course of beef, chicken or fish - always with fries - no vegetable, and desert is yogurt or fruit or sometimes flan (creme caramel - sort-of) and wine and bread.
Sometimes if the Albergues have a kitchen, you can buy something and cook it. I haven't done that yet, but I will from time to time.
You also need to try and scout out a little store for supplies for the next day as you have to supply your own lunch or breakfast. And you don't usually find places on the road; plus you want to limit how long you stop.
It's hard to find the right stuff to take each day, unless you always want to eat bread and cheese. I try and rest every 2 hours for 10 minute and eat something, whether I feel like it or not.
Today was yogurt in the morning, some crackers with jam, more yogurt at my first stop, a can of sardines and some bread for lunch - with a little tomato. And for the third day in a row, all the fresh figs I could eat from trees by the road side - Yum!!
I was hoping to find raw almonds to snack on, as they are a great energy snack, but although they grow here, the ones in the supermarket are all heavily salted.
You can only buy food for one day at a time as it is crucial that you don't add any excess weight to your backpack.
Today I lunched under a tree with Jackie from Quebec, and Aude from Belgium. It was very hot today - about 23 C -and no shade.
I had very bad day earlier in the week (probably why you didn't hear from me).
It was raining slightly, which made the rough stony road so slippery. There was a lot of down hill over very rough stones, and my knees and toes were just screaming. It was so painful and scary as well, as the inclines were so steep. I fell 3 times. Fortunately I fell backwards in all cases, due to the weight of my pack, and it also cushioned my fall.
I'm trying very hard to just live in the moment on these long walks, enjoy the wonderful scenery, and quit saying to myself, "Are we there yet, are we there yet, are we there yet? ..." (very inappropriate pilgrim behaviour.)
I've even quit hoping that I get a lower bunk at night, because you just can't ask to change (pilgrims must be grateful for everything they get). I found this out when I was assigned a top bunk and asked if I could change to a lower.
Last night in the dorm, someone was snoring so loudly that a few people went out in the hall and slept on the floor. I have ear plugs for this, but for some strange reason, I feel like I can't breathe when I have them in (Yes, OK, I do know the difference between my nose and my ears.).
Today I am posting this from a place called Los Arcos.
I got in early enough today (2:00) that my laundry may have a hope of drying. Normally it doesn't dry overnight, so many people leave the inn in the morning with socks and underwear and T-shirts pinned to the back of their back packs so that that they can dry in the sun.
I have to go now and think about tomorrow's route. It can be either 30 k or 20 k.
I'll probably let my feet make the decision. Today was fairly easy walking, given that even when the guide book says it is flat, there is no such thing.
So far, so good!
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Taking a Break
Sometimes, after 25 kil you just want to lay down.
Gotta run. My time is up on the internet.
Gotta run. My time is up on the internet.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Pamplona
I stayed in Pamplona last night (running of the bulls): a beautiful city, the little I saw of it.
I'm here in the Internet room . Fortunately all of the Aubergues have them.
They charge 1 euro for 20 minutes.
I stayed in tonight and just ate some leftover sandwiches I had, but we got in late today so I didn't feel like going out to dinner.
Get this: I visited with a French woman tonight that was on a different pilgrimage before she joined this one.
She has already walked 700 K and still has more than 700 to go.
Now that's amazing!
I'm here in the Internet room . Fortunately all of the Aubergues have them.
They charge 1 euro for 20 minutes.
I stayed in tonight and just ate some leftover sandwiches I had, but we got in late today so I didn't feel like going out to dinner.
Get this: I visited with a French woman tonight that was on a different pilgrimage before she joined this one.
She has already walked 700 K and still has more than 700 to go.
Now that's amazing!
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Walking the Camino
I forgot to mention earlier that the pilgrim passport that you receive at the beginning of the walk is essential for you to gain entrance to the various hostels (Albergues as they are known here.), and also in bars and restaurant, so that you can have a pilgrim meal. It must be stamped each time you present it, and at the end of the walk you receive a special certification for having completed the pilgrimage.
The Albergues are either municipality run, and cost about 6 euro (so far), or private, and vary in price. I am in a private one tonight for 10 euros. It is still like a boarding school set up - bunk beds and shared facilities.
Last night after the big climb over the mountain I stayed at a municipal Albergue in Roncesvalles - an old monastery.
I was fortunate to get a lower bunk bed. I guess there were probably 50 people in the room. Fortunately, no serious snorers. You get a bunk, and pillow but you are expected to have your own sleeping bag. If you are really lucky, they may have extra blankets. laundry and bathroom facilities are available, but usually with line ups (just 2 toilets and 2 showers for women) - same for the men. Also there are sinks to rinse out clothing as you usually have to wash stuff at night, to wear the next day.
Dinner: so far dinner is in a local bar or restaurant where you get a pilgrim's meal - set menu (9 euro). I was warned about some of the pilgrim meals!
Here's what we had last night: wine, & bread (always), a first course of pasta with tomatoes sauce, then fish and french fries - no salad or vegetables - and a container of plain yogurt for dessert.
Everything was good, but a salad would have been great. I saved the yogurt for breakfast as we had to walk 3 K today before getting food or coffee.
After the big climb over the Pyrenees I expected to be really sore, but I felt great this morning. Some of us wanted to leave early (daylight is not until 8:00 am), and it is pitch black - no street lights or anything. So a few of us put on our miner's flash lites that wrap around our head and started out early - a bit scary because the trail was rough with a lot of stones.
Again, beautiful weather today.
I was hoping for a flat surface today but there were a number of hills and very steep slopes. Hell to go down with bad knees.
The first town we came to had a great bakery cafe with the fabulous cafe au-lait they serve here, called cafe con leche.
I guess the walk today was around 23 k.
The people (we are called pilgrims) who walk the Camino are very kind, respectful and sharing. There seem to be some unwritten rules of behaviour that everyone observes. There also is an easy camaraderie along the Camino. You may walk with someone for a brief time, then you or they move on and you may walk alone. I notice even couples do this. There is no sense of obligation to stick with someone, and people seldom do, but you always can have company if you like.
I'm very glad I came on my own on this trip. I'm a big believer in solo travel, for this sort of adventure.
You tend to meet more people, they readily include you, and it´s a chance to try and communicate in another language. The biggest majority of pilgrims are French or Spanish, but they come for all over the world. So if you are thinking of doing this, I highly encourage you to come alone.
My roommates tonight are all guys so far. I'm in a small dorm, but there are women in the other dorms. A few of us are heading out now to find dinner: 2 Korean women, a guy from Venezuela, 2 guys from Spain - and this very tired, but happy Canadian girl.
Adios.
The Albergues are either municipality run, and cost about 6 euro (so far), or private, and vary in price. I am in a private one tonight for 10 euros. It is still like a boarding school set up - bunk beds and shared facilities.
Last night after the big climb over the mountain I stayed at a municipal Albergue in Roncesvalles - an old monastery.
I was fortunate to get a lower bunk bed. I guess there were probably 50 people in the room. Fortunately, no serious snorers. You get a bunk, and pillow but you are expected to have your own sleeping bag. If you are really lucky, they may have extra blankets. laundry and bathroom facilities are available, but usually with line ups (just 2 toilets and 2 showers for women) - same for the men. Also there are sinks to rinse out clothing as you usually have to wash stuff at night, to wear the next day.
Dinner: so far dinner is in a local bar or restaurant where you get a pilgrim's meal - set menu (9 euro). I was warned about some of the pilgrim meals!
Here's what we had last night: wine, & bread (always), a first course of pasta with tomatoes sauce, then fish and french fries - no salad or vegetables - and a container of plain yogurt for dessert.
Everything was good, but a salad would have been great. I saved the yogurt for breakfast as we had to walk 3 K today before getting food or coffee.
After the big climb over the Pyrenees I expected to be really sore, but I felt great this morning. Some of us wanted to leave early (daylight is not until 8:00 am), and it is pitch black - no street lights or anything. So a few of us put on our miner's flash lites that wrap around our head and started out early - a bit scary because the trail was rough with a lot of stones.
Again, beautiful weather today.
I was hoping for a flat surface today but there were a number of hills and very steep slopes. Hell to go down with bad knees.
The first town we came to had a great bakery cafe with the fabulous cafe au-lait they serve here, called cafe con leche.
I guess the walk today was around 23 k.
The people (we are called pilgrims) who walk the Camino are very kind, respectful and sharing. There seem to be some unwritten rules of behaviour that everyone observes. There also is an easy camaraderie along the Camino. You may walk with someone for a brief time, then you or they move on and you may walk alone. I notice even couples do this. There is no sense of obligation to stick with someone, and people seldom do, but you always can have company if you like.
I'm very glad I came on my own on this trip. I'm a big believer in solo travel, for this sort of adventure.
You tend to meet more people, they readily include you, and it´s a chance to try and communicate in another language. The biggest majority of pilgrims are French or Spanish, but they come for all over the world. So if you are thinking of doing this, I highly encourage you to come alone.
My roommates tonight are all guys so far. I'm in a small dorm, but there are women in the other dorms. A few of us are heading out now to find dinner: 2 Korean women, a guy from Venezuela, 2 guys from Spain - and this very tired, but happy Canadian girl.
Adios.
Friday, October 10, 2008
The Girl Went Over the Mountain
Well the bear went over the mountain today to see what she could see - and she made it!
What a challenge! The road went straight up and kept on going up.
When I registered at the pilgrim office, in order to get my pilgrim's passport, they suggested I start out Thursday afternoon and stop at a hostel just 6 kilometers out of St Jean PdP. I decided to do that as it would shave some time off my trip on Friday.
The first 6K was unbelievable - I have never seen such an incline - at least one I had to walk.
Got to the hostel and had a pleasant evening. They served dinner and all the other guests were either French or German. One french guy spoke a little English so he helped me out. I had one roommate in my dorm, from Lithuania. We couldn't converse at all.
The view from this place was unbelievable - you could see mists rising out of the valley below. Really spectacular!
The climb continued today with the same steepness - I stopped and rested when I couldn't go on.
A beautiful day - sunny - no clouds in the sky.
Very windy as I neared the top and rough walking with lots of mud.
Going down just as hard as going up- very rough on knees and toes.
In any case I made it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The hostel here in Roncesvalles is in an old monastery - really cold and no blankets.
What a challenge! The road went straight up and kept on going up.
When I registered at the pilgrim office, in order to get my pilgrim's passport, they suggested I start out Thursday afternoon and stop at a hostel just 6 kilometers out of St Jean PdP. I decided to do that as it would shave some time off my trip on Friday.
The first 6K was unbelievable - I have never seen such an incline - at least one I had to walk.
Got to the hostel and had a pleasant evening. They served dinner and all the other guests were either French or German. One french guy spoke a little English so he helped me out. I had one roommate in my dorm, from Lithuania. We couldn't converse at all.
The view from this place was unbelievable - you could see mists rising out of the valley below. Really spectacular!
The climb continued today with the same steepness - I stopped and rested when I couldn't go on.
A beautiful day - sunny - no clouds in the sky.
Very windy as I neared the top and rough walking with lots of mud.
Going down just as hard as going up- very rough on knees and toes.
In any case I made it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The hostel here in Roncesvalles is in an old monastery - really cold and no blankets.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Off to St. Jean Pied-de-Port
Just a quick post via Steve before I leave for St: Jean PdP today.
I had a great sleep last night, and the croissants for breakfast were fantastic. The thought has occurred to me that I could just stay here for the next month and just eat french pasteries and see the sights. This is a beautiful older city, and divided by ponts at many points. I had Mexican food last night for dinner at a little hole in the wall....it was fabulous.
It's a beautiful day today....hope I get as good tomorrow. My bag is definitely too heavy....so I have to figure out what to do about that.
I missed the early morning departure for St.Jean, but should be ok to leave at noon: I still need to call Visa again, as my credit card is still not being accepted.
You may not hear from me again until after I climb the mountain (the internet cafe charges add up.)
I had a great sleep last night, and the croissants for breakfast were fantastic. The thought has occurred to me that I could just stay here for the next month and just eat french pasteries and see the sights. This is a beautiful older city, and divided by ponts at many points. I had Mexican food last night for dinner at a little hole in the wall....it was fabulous.
It's a beautiful day today....hope I get as good tomorrow. My bag is definitely too heavy....so I have to figure out what to do about that.
I missed the early morning departure for St.Jean, but should be ok to leave at noon: I still need to call Visa again, as my credit card is still not being accepted.
You may not hear from me again until after I climb the mountain (the internet cafe charges add up.)
Got to Paris and then to Bayonne
So far so good.
The flight was fine, crowded seating, but I sat next to a woman who was really enjoyable, a new friend I think: She teaches psychology part time at U of T, and part time in Latvia!
Neither one of us could sleep much so it helped to pass the time.
The plane arrived early so no problem with my connection. Also made the train connection as well to Bayonne! but just!! as the bus from the airport was very late.
Sorry for the typos: and strange punctuation. Some differences in the keyboard.
Took me 3 trys to find a user friendly internet cafe,....but at least I persisted for a change.
When I went to use my Visa they wouldn't accept it without a code, so I had to phone Visa to find out what it was.
As you know I find those things sort of stressful, but I realize how good it is for me to try and tackle them on my own. Maybe I'll develop some patience on this trip.
I was hoping to sleep on the train trip, because I'm totally bagged now, but the seats just wouldn't allow it.
I'm here in Bayonne now.
Got the last room at the Madrid Paris hotel.....truly a pilgrim's room.
The toilet is on another floor, and the shower is on another floor yet again.
The layout is rather confusing, I've not made it back to my room yet on the first try, so just picture me in the night trying to find the toilet.
It has all the makings of a Monty Python skit!
Bayonne is a beautiful old city, and I've walked around a little, but pretty tired so I'll head back to the hotel now.
I've seen a few pilgrims pass by. Their backpacks are about half the size of mine. HMMMM...
The flight was fine, crowded seating, but I sat next to a woman who was really enjoyable, a new friend I think: She teaches psychology part time at U of T, and part time in Latvia!
Neither one of us could sleep much so it helped to pass the time.
The plane arrived early so no problem with my connection. Also made the train connection as well to Bayonne! but just!! as the bus from the airport was very late.
Sorry for the typos: and strange punctuation. Some differences in the keyboard.
Took me 3 trys to find a user friendly internet cafe,....but at least I persisted for a change.
When I went to use my Visa they wouldn't accept it without a code, so I had to phone Visa to find out what it was.
As you know I find those things sort of stressful, but I realize how good it is for me to try and tackle them on my own. Maybe I'll develop some patience on this trip.
I was hoping to sleep on the train trip, because I'm totally bagged now, but the seats just wouldn't allow it.
I'm here in Bayonne now.
Got the last room at the Madrid Paris hotel.....truly a pilgrim's room.
The toilet is on another floor, and the shower is on another floor yet again.
The layout is rather confusing, I've not made it back to my room yet on the first try, so just picture me in the night trying to find the toilet.
It has all the makings of a Monty Python skit!
Bayonne is a beautiful old city, and I've walked around a little, but pretty tired so I'll head back to the hotel now.
I've seen a few pilgrims pass by. Their backpacks are about half the size of mine. HMMMM...
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Before the trek
I thought I would let all of you know that I hope to walk the El Camino trail across the top of Spain, ( or at least part of it,) beginning next week.
This trail is known because of the millions of pigrims who have walked this 780 kilometer route that begins by crossing the Pyrenees mountains in France, then on to Santiago Spain, the legendary resting place of the body of the apostle St James. (hence referred to as "the Camino de Santiago".)
Millons have trod this stony path since the 9th century. Now, more than 100,000 people a year complete at least part of this ancient pilgrim route, and do so for a variety of reasons.
I'm not entirely clear as to what my reasons are, but I want to tackle a little bit of it at least.
I hope that some of you will register to post comments on this blog, as I will definitely need your encouragment along the way. I will try and post the highlites of my trip, as I go, and as internet cafes etc become available.
I fly out on Tuesday morning, and I hope to start my climb across the Pyrenees by Thursday..Friday latest.
I am competely terrified of the first day.
It is a 30 kilometer hike to the hostel I will stay at for the night, carrying my back pack the entire time. A friend who did it last year said it took her 10 hours.
7 straight up and 3 down.
Hokey Heck! Wish me luck!
This trail is known because of the millions of pigrims who have walked this 780 kilometer route that begins by crossing the Pyrenees mountains in France, then on to Santiago Spain, the legendary resting place of the body of the apostle St James. (hence referred to as "the Camino de Santiago".)
Millons have trod this stony path since the 9th century. Now, more than 100,000 people a year complete at least part of this ancient pilgrim route, and do so for a variety of reasons.
I'm not entirely clear as to what my reasons are, but I want to tackle a little bit of it at least.
I hope that some of you will register to post comments on this blog, as I will definitely need your encouragment along the way. I will try and post the highlites of my trip, as I go, and as internet cafes etc become available.
I fly out on Tuesday morning, and I hope to start my climb across the Pyrenees by Thursday..Friday latest.
I am competely terrified of the first day.
It is a 30 kilometer hike to the hostel I will stay at for the night, carrying my back pack the entire time. A friend who did it last year said it took her 10 hours.
7 straight up and 3 down.
Hokey Heck! Wish me luck!
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