Saturday, October 11, 2008

Walking the Camino

I forgot to mention earlier that the pilgrim passport that you receive at the beginning of the walk is essential for you to gain entrance to the various hostels (Albergues as they are known here.), and also in bars and restaurant, so that you can have a pilgrim meal. It must be stamped each time you present it, and at the end of the walk you receive a special certification for having completed the pilgrimage.
The Albergues are either municipality run, and cost about 6 euro (so far), or private, and vary in price. I am in a private one tonight for 10 euros. It is still like a boarding school set up - bunk beds and shared facilities.
Last night after the big climb over the mountain I stayed at a municipal Albergue in Roncesvalles - an old monastery.
I was fortunate to get a lower bunk bed. I guess there were probably 50 people in the room. Fortunately, no serious snorers. You get a bunk, and pillow but you are expected to have your own sleeping bag. If you are really lucky, they may have extra blankets. laundry and bathroom facilities are available, but usually with line ups (just 2 toilets and 2 showers for women) - same for the men. Also there are sinks to rinse out clothing as you usually have to wash stuff at night, to wear the next day.
Dinner: so far dinner is in a local bar or restaurant where you get a pilgrim's meal - set menu (9 euro). I was warned about some of the pilgrim meals!
Here's what we had last night: wine, & bread (always), a first course of pasta with tomatoes sauce, then fish and french fries - no salad or vegetables - and a container of plain yogurt for dessert.
Everything was good, but a salad would have been great. I saved the yogurt for breakfast as we had to walk 3 K today before getting food or coffee.
After the big climb over the Pyrenees I expected to be really sore, but I felt great this morning. Some of us wanted to leave early (daylight is not until 8:00 am), and it is pitch black - no street lights or anything. So a few of us put on our miner's flash lites that wrap around our head and started out early - a bit scary because the trail was rough with a lot of stones.
Again, beautiful weather today.
I was hoping for a flat surface today but there were a number of hills and very steep slopes. Hell to go down with bad knees.
The first town we came to had a great bakery cafe with the fabulous cafe au-lait they serve here, called cafe con leche.
I guess the walk today was around 23 k.
The people (we are called pilgrims) who walk the Camino are very kind, respectful and sharing. There seem to be some unwritten rules of behaviour that everyone observes. There also is an easy camaraderie along the Camino. You may walk with someone for a brief time, then you or they move on and you may walk alone. I notice even couples do this. There is no sense of obligation to stick with someone, and people seldom do, but you always can have company if you like.
I'm very glad I came on my own on this trip. I'm a big believer in solo travel, for this sort of adventure.
You tend to meet more people, they readily include you, and it´s a chance to try and communicate in another language. The biggest majority of pilgrims are French or Spanish, but they come for all over the world. So if you are thinking of doing this, I highly encourage you to come alone.
My roommates tonight are all guys so far. I'm in a small dorm, but there are women in the other dorms. A few of us are heading out now to find dinner: 2 Korean women, a guy from Venezuela, 2 guys from Spain - and this very tired, but happy Canadian girl.
Adios.

4 comments:

liz said...

Hey Lynne

Just got your blog info, I was just blown away to find out that you were in spain and crossing the pyrennes, we were just at the cottage yesterday and someone stopped at your cottage and started to take pictures, so I guess you know what that was all about!!!!
Well, this walk is just up your ally girl, you go!!!!
You are going to have a pile of fun, I lived in spain for 3 months when i was the ripe old age of 20 and I loved it, the people, the land the scenery the sea it was all good and you will have a ball. Not to mention the wine and the food in the most unpretentious settings will be the best.
I will be watching every day for your postings,

viva la canada
love liz and leroy

Steve said...

Hey, Darlene.
I told you that Lynne was a walking machine - that wasn't a joke.
Lynne's stamina is amazing!

And, no Liz, the photos are just for Cottage Rentals.

And, Lynne, you are just plain AMAZING!

lucia said...

Hi Lynne, Looks like the next place we hear from you may be Pamploma. I found this web site (caminodesantiago.me.uk if any one else is interested) where they have a map (and much more) and am following your trek. Totally understand your recommendation of doing the journey alone.
Thanks for writing us everyday...at least so far! Don't think I would be that good. but I look forward to it.

Wendy said...

Wow, Lynne. What a thrilling surprise to get your blog info and discover that you are walking the Camino -- Congratulations!!Joan and I were just agreeing last week that we missed your company on our regular walks and hoped you'd join us again. We still do, and will look forward to seeing you when you get back. In the meantime, we'll follow your great adventure online. How wonderful!
W.