Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Get Me to the Church On Time

Very close to the end now.
Just one more day -or rather, half a day - as tomorrow morning I expect to arrive in Santiago by noon to attend the pilgrim mass in the cathedral. To ensure I got a decent night's sleep I decided to book into a private Albergue - only a few euros more than the public one, which was very crowded.
This was modern and clean and lovely and just a few pilgrims, however by 8.00 at night I started to worry as the dorm was very cold and I did not feel any heat. Sometimes they don't turn the heat on until lights out (10.00) so I tried to remain hopeful, however by 9.30 I started to fear the worst.

Doing my now standard and practised shivering mode, I tried to find out from the owner of the Albergue, the situation re: heat. I pointed up at the heating vents all across the ceiling and did more shivering. The owner pointed up at the ceiling vents as well, jabbering madly in Spanish. What is he saying? The vents are broken? They won't be turned on? Or (more hopefully) they will be going on later?

However my hopes were completely dashed when he opened the outside door and fanned the air - still jabbering on in Spanish -which I find amazing, as he must know I can't understand a single word. So what is he telling me now? That it is not cold outside, hence no heat inside.
(Well, bloody right it's cold - both outside and in!!)... Or is he telling me to vamoose - hit the road?
Despairingly, I shiver one last time and return to the dorm, collecting as many blankets as I can, from uninhabited beds.

Not the best sleep I've ever had.
I actually yelled, "Shut up!!!" at a snorer, out of sheer frustration.

I decide to start early in the morning with a few other pilgrims, as you never know for sure how long the walk will take. It all depends on the quality and challenges of the Camino.
It was very dark when we left, and we had to use our flashlights to identify the arrows and shells that mark the way of the Camino. They seemed to lead us down a dark forest road that was shin deep in water and mud. There did not seem to be any way around it so we waded in, only to come to a dead end in about 10 minutes. Thoroughly soaked, we had to return the same way, and eventually found the correct Camino path.

I knew I had to put out a fair bit of speed now, as I was worried about getting to the church on time. I kept looking at my watch (or whats left of it - all the straps are gone) to check the time, but I still allowed myself 15 minutes for a coffee and a quick bite. I hurried along the trail accompanied by a light rain, but not too cold.

After you arrive at the outskirts of a city, it always seems to take an amazingly long time to get to the city center and today was no different.
I got to the Church 15 minutes late (exactly the time I had stopped for coffee), but I was still able to slip into the Mass, and missing the first 15 minutes didn't seem to matter because, of course, I understand nothing of what was being said - and I had arrived in true Pilgrim fashion: very dirty and somewhat tired...but exhilarated.
The Cathederal is incredibly massive and fantastic beyond belief. Built in 1211, it dominates the city to such an extent that its doors open out onto 3 separate city squares.The interior is just as overwhelming.

I didn't see any Pilgrims I knew so truthfully, I felt a little lonely and disappointed, as there was no one to celebrate with.
As I was getting up to leave I spotted the group that I had parted from early on, when I had decide to stay behind and be a bit of a tourist. I really liked this group (all quite young) and I had often wondered about them. I was thrilled to see them, and they seemed very happy to see me.

Gradually I spotted other pilgrims that I had met on the Camino. After catching up on the news, I went off to the Oficina del Peregrino to present my, now, well stamped pilgrim passport and receive my Compostela - final proof that I have completed the pilgrimage.

The group I had just reunited with asked me if I would like to find a place to stay with them, so we went on the hunt for something cheap, but acceptable.
The place we agreed on was like a university dorm. I truthfully wanted something a little more comfortable, but decided to spend the last night with them before we all parted and went our separate ways.

My last night as a pilgrim and, of course, there was no heat.

2 comments:

Darlene said...

Hooray! I am the first to congratulate you on your amazing achievement!!! What a trooper you have been - persisting in the face of snow, mud, freezing temperatures, unheated albergues,and sore feet. Day after day you have walked and I have eagerly looked forward to the story of your day. Thank you for your blog, for sharing this achievement with all of us, and for walking with such grace and spirit. You are an inspiration!
Love Darlene

Kiwi Nomad said...

Congratulatiions Lynne! I hope you manage to meet a few more people from your travels in the area of the Cathedral before you leave Santiago, and get to share some time with them.
I am interested to read about how cold the albergues are. I started in France in mid-April, when it was still quite cold at night (and in fact there was even snow a few times) but all the French gites were well heated.