[Updated Nov 10, 2008]
Another long day.
Up hill mostly, to the top of a mountain, where rests the rainy, foggy hamlet of O Cebreiro.
Apparently, the view from this point down into the valley is fantastic, but as the fog seldom clears, who knows?
Despite the cold and rain, the dorm was well heated and I had the first really warm sleep in quite awhile.
Considering the weather, I want to know about all those commercials that talk about "Sunny Spain."
That must be another Spain.
Remind me to visit it next time.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo - 22K
[Updated Nov 10, 2008]
Weather much nicer today - and beautiful scenery - as we are back into a landscape of vineyards and rolling hills.
A very long day however as my leg was really sore, so it was slow going.
I did find a Farmacia that was open mid-afternoon, which was a miracle in itself, as they are never open - as a rule - until about 5:00 PM. I bought 600 mg of ibuprofen and washed the first one down with a glass of wine.
(I figured that was OK, as I was not going to be operating heavy machinery that day.)
I was walking alone and, by accident, I ended up on "The Lovely, Longer Camino road".
No, no, no - this I did not want, but I did not realize what I had done until I noticed that I was moving away from the village in the distance, rather than towards it - and consulting my map confirmed my worst fears.
There was no going back at this point, so I slogged on and took the liberty of frequently swearing and crying out loud, as there was no one to hear.
It took me forever to travel 22 k, which is usually not that bad for me, however my leg dictated my speed.
The Albergue at this stop was a funky, hippy sort of place, hosted by a young Spanish guy and German girl who cooked a communal meal for us.
This may not appeal to you, but we found it delicious.
We had a big crunchy salad with lots of veggies, garlic soup, bread, 2 fried eggs and a big platter of boiled potatoes and, something similar to Swiss Chard.
The table was very international - Swiss, German, Canadian, French Canadian (they always make the distinction), Croatian, Korean, American, Spanish, Italian. and Aussie.
On the Camino there is always an easy camaraderie, especially at meals.
No awkwardness, or feeling at all that you are with strangers. Everyone chats easily, with lots of pantomime gestures to get your point across.
The dorm was the usual set up - washrooms not exactly outside, but just as cold, so no shower for me. For some reason, even in a restaurant, the washrooms are never heated.
As pilgrims arrive in the dorm they are closely scrutinized for signs that they may be snorers. Middle aged men, people with pinched nostrils and thick lower lips (clear signs of a mouth breathers) are particularly suspect.
We have become so aggressive about this, that now, people are often challenged out-right and asked if they snore.
This night, a middle-aged Spanish guy looked like a possible hazard, so one of the women asked if he snored and he said, "mucho snoring." At that, one of the German girls asked him to move to another dorm and, when he smilingly refused, she unsmilingly said, "I kill you."
The Camino is definitely not for sissies.
P.S. The guy never snored once, as far as I know.
Weather much nicer today - and beautiful scenery - as we are back into a landscape of vineyards and rolling hills.
A very long day however as my leg was really sore, so it was slow going.
I did find a Farmacia that was open mid-afternoon, which was a miracle in itself, as they are never open - as a rule - until about 5:00 PM. I bought 600 mg of ibuprofen and washed the first one down with a glass of wine.
(I figured that was OK, as I was not going to be operating heavy machinery that day.)
I was walking alone and, by accident, I ended up on "The Lovely, Longer Camino road".
No, no, no - this I did not want, but I did not realize what I had done until I noticed that I was moving away from the village in the distance, rather than towards it - and consulting my map confirmed my worst fears.
There was no going back at this point, so I slogged on and took the liberty of frequently swearing and crying out loud, as there was no one to hear.
It took me forever to travel 22 k, which is usually not that bad for me, however my leg dictated my speed.
The Albergue at this stop was a funky, hippy sort of place, hosted by a young Spanish guy and German girl who cooked a communal meal for us.
This may not appeal to you, but we found it delicious.
We had a big crunchy salad with lots of veggies, garlic soup, bread, 2 fried eggs and a big platter of boiled potatoes and, something similar to Swiss Chard.
The table was very international - Swiss, German, Canadian, French Canadian (they always make the distinction), Croatian, Korean, American, Spanish, Italian. and Aussie.
On the Camino there is always an easy camaraderie, especially at meals.
No awkwardness, or feeling at all that you are with strangers. Everyone chats easily, with lots of pantomime gestures to get your point across.
The dorm was the usual set up - washrooms not exactly outside, but just as cold, so no shower for me. For some reason, even in a restaurant, the washrooms are never heated.
As pilgrims arrive in the dorm they are closely scrutinized for signs that they may be snorers. Middle aged men, people with pinched nostrils and thick lower lips (clear signs of a mouth breathers) are particularly suspect.
We have become so aggressive about this, that now, people are often challenged out-right and asked if they snore.
This night, a middle-aged Spanish guy looked like a possible hazard, so one of the women asked if he snored and he said, "mucho snoring." At that, one of the German girls asked him to move to another dorm and, when he smilingly refused, she unsmilingly said, "I kill you."
The Camino is definitely not for sissies.
P.S. The guy never snored once, as far as I know.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
El Acebo to Ponferrada - 17K
Another short day.
I'm behind re: the schedule I had set out for myself, but sometimes there is no choice.
Quite a few of the Albergues close at the end of October and, because my book is not up to date with the most current info, I rely on the other Pilgrims - some of whom have very current lists.
As best we could tell, the next Albergue would have been a 41 K walk - a little too far in one day, given my ankle is still sore. I would need to walk about 37 K tomorrow to get myself somewhat back on my schedule, but I think I'll go for something a little less than that.
I need to head off to the bank now and hope that Visa will free up some money, but I'm not optimistic. It hasn't worked in the stores where I have tried to use it over the past few days.
If there is anything more frustrating than dealing with Visa while you are out of country, I want to know what that is.
Patti; Thanks for your note. So good to hear from you. Could we have a siblings dinner out before Christmas do you think? I would really look forward to that.
Dee; Your words of encouragement always appreciated.
I'm behind re: the schedule I had set out for myself, but sometimes there is no choice.
Quite a few of the Albergues close at the end of October and, because my book is not up to date with the most current info, I rely on the other Pilgrims - some of whom have very current lists.
As best we could tell, the next Albergue would have been a 41 K walk - a little too far in one day, given my ankle is still sore. I would need to walk about 37 K tomorrow to get myself somewhat back on my schedule, but I think I'll go for something a little less than that.
I need to head off to the bank now and hope that Visa will free up some money, but I'm not optimistic. It hasn't worked in the stores where I have tried to use it over the past few days.
If there is anything more frustrating than dealing with Visa while you are out of country, I want to know what that is.
Patti; Thanks for your note. So good to hear from you. Could we have a siblings dinner out before Christmas do you think? I would really look forward to that.
Dee; Your words of encouragement always appreciated.
Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo - 18 K
Today was a climb up over the Leon mountains (I think I referred to them as the Alps - wrong!), with the intention of travelling to Molinaseca - trek of about 26 kil.
The climb was not bad at all, but we did encounter both snow and rain.
About 10 kil along, we came to the Cruz de Ferro -a massive pile of stones with an Iron Cross erected on top. An important Camino ritual is to lay a stone on the pile, to calm the mountain Gods, and ask for safe passage through the mountains.
It had a warm and cosy bar at the front, a dining room and a dorm with blankets - heated (until midnight only). Sometimes it's the best you can do.
When we woke in the morning, it had snowed heavily in the night. It looked beautiful, as we looked out the window, to see the snow on the mountains and covering the slated rooftops.
I was slightly apprehensive about this, as there was talk we would run into snow, and we woke to howling winds and a great deal of fog.
By the way, the latest technique we are using for staying warm is to place a liberal layer of newspapers between our various tops. The backpack keeps your back warm, but the newspaper really helps cut the wind at the front.
The climb was not bad at all, but we did encounter both snow and rain.
Unfortunately, I turned my ankle ever so slightly on the wet stones, and so the walk was somewhat painful.
About 10 kil along, we came to the Cruz de Ferro -a massive pile of stones with an Iron Cross erected on top. An important Camino ritual is to lay a stone on the pile, to calm the mountain Gods, and ask for safe passage through the mountains.
Many Pilgrims bring a stone from home to place here, and others pick up ones along the way.
A few kilometres on marks the highest point of the Camino at 1517 M. The views are apparently stunning from here, but there was a blanket of fog over the entire valley so we never had the opportunity to appreciate them.
From there we headed to El Acebo and it started to rain heavily, with a brutally cold wind as we approached the village. As it was a steep downhill trek for another 8k to reach our intended destination, we decide to stay at the Albergue in El Acebo instead of continuing on.
I also thought I should not tax my ankle too much.
I also thought I should not tax my ankle too much.
It had a warm and cosy bar at the front, a dining room and a dorm with blankets - heated (until midnight only). Sometimes it's the best you can do.
When we woke in the morning, it had snowed heavily in the night. It looked beautiful, as we looked out the window, to see the snow on the mountains and covering the slated rooftops.
The reality of walking in it wasn't so great.
Especially since none of us had packed for a winter trek.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Astorga to Rabanal del Camino - 20K
Short walk again today and, despite the fact it is below zero now, the wind was not bad, so the walk was OK.
We have left the Meseta and are going to be starting to climb a section of the Alps tomorrow. There is lots more I would like to tell you about the area, but the Internet at this Albergue is outside in a courtyard and my fingers are falling off, so I need to make this brief.
Washing your clothes almost always takes place outside, in a courtyard as well, and the water is freezing cold. There are big signs always saying, you cannot wash them inside in the sink where there actually is warm water.
I'm down to one pair if underwear again. It's making me a little crazy, but I'm wondering if I lost them last night, moving dorms.
It would be a worthwhile sacrifice if someone had used them to try and strangle the snorer.
Gotta go - so cold.
We have left the Meseta and are going to be starting to climb a section of the Alps tomorrow. There is lots more I would like to tell you about the area, but the Internet at this Albergue is outside in a courtyard and my fingers are falling off, so I need to make this brief.
Washing your clothes almost always takes place outside, in a courtyard as well, and the water is freezing cold. There are big signs always saying, you cannot wash them inside in the sink where there actually is warm water.
I'm down to one pair if underwear again. It's making me a little crazy, but I'm wondering if I lost them last night, moving dorms.
It would be a worthwhile sacrifice if someone had used them to try and strangle the snorer.
Gotta go - so cold.
In Astorga
Just a small note re: my bed mates last night.
Julian, the French Canadian guy, pointed out to me, just before bed, that the guy sleeping right next to me was the most renown snorer on the Camino and that he, Julian, was moving to another dorm they had just opened up, because he had been exposed to this guy's snoring before and he said it was deadly.
I decide to move to the new dorm as well, despite the fact that it meant a top bunk, and it seemed a little cooler than the original one.
It turned out to be a good decision.
I got up once in the night to use the washroom and there were serious Husqvarna sounds coming from the other dorm. Lots of grumbling from the other people the next morning, who had tried to sleep through the noise. I fear if I'd stayed in that dorm, my chapter today would be called, "Murder on the Camino."
By the way, re: a top bunk; beside the fact that I hate trying to get out of them during the night, there is nowhere to put the things you usually keep near the bed - your water and flashlight, your bag with Passport and money and my glasses. I just take everything to bed with me, keep my glasses on and hope that none of it falls out during the night - and that my glasses don't end up underneath me.
Julian, the French Canadian guy, pointed out to me, just before bed, that the guy sleeping right next to me was the most renown snorer on the Camino and that he, Julian, was moving to another dorm they had just opened up, because he had been exposed to this guy's snoring before and he said it was deadly.
I decide to move to the new dorm as well, despite the fact that it meant a top bunk, and it seemed a little cooler than the original one.
It turned out to be a good decision.
I got up once in the night to use the washroom and there were serious Husqvarna sounds coming from the other dorm. Lots of grumbling from the other people the next morning, who had tried to sleep through the noise. I fear if I'd stayed in that dorm, my chapter today would be called, "Murder on the Camino."
By the way, re: a top bunk; beside the fact that I hate trying to get out of them during the night, there is nowhere to put the things you usually keep near the bed - your water and flashlight, your bag with Passport and money and my glasses. I just take everything to bed with me, keep my glasses on and hope that none of it falls out during the night - and that my glasses don't end up underneath me.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Villadangos del Páramo to Astorga - 27 K
I've noticed the interior of my shoes have started to disintegrate - especially at the heels, they are completely shredded. I hope this does not mean new blisters, as my feet are pretty well under control.
I hear that most Pilgrims carry duct tape, although I never knew why. Now I know that it's to keep your shoes together, or perhaps tape them to your feet - Lordy!!!
The Albergue here has heat, but the bunk beds are so close to each other, it's practically like sleeping in a double bed. I hope the person next to me does not snore and, at least, introduces themselves before we go to sleep.
Carolyn; So good to hear from you. Have a great time in Marco.
Darlene; Your favourite Refugio closes the end of October - probably means no heat there.
Pat; Glad you are enjoying the blog. Thanks for the note.
Laurie; I do have woollies - hat that is - and one I can even wear to bed.
I hear that most Pilgrims carry duct tape, although I never knew why. Now I know that it's to keep your shoes together, or perhaps tape them to your feet - Lordy!!!
The Albergue here has heat, but the bunk beds are so close to each other, it's practically like sleeping in a double bed. I hope the person next to me does not snore and, at least, introduces themselves before we go to sleep.
Carolyn; So good to hear from you. Have a great time in Marco.
Darlene; Your favourite Refugio closes the end of October - probably means no heat there.
Pat; Glad you are enjoying the blog. Thanks for the note.
Laurie; I do have woollies - hat that is - and one I can even wear to bed.
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