My incredible journey ...

... ends here in Santaigo.
Walking the Camino de Santiago has been an amazing experience for me, with so many memories to hold on to.
I have been motivated, uplifted, and cheered beyond words by your interest, caring and kindness. Your continuous words of encouragement made a world of difference to me. I couldn't have done it without your help.

My most heartfelt thanks!!

Some things I know for sure.

• Be open to new adventure - even better, seek it out!
• Don't be afraid to go solo every now and then, it can be enriching and confidence building
• Never leave home without your 4 digit PIN ·number
• Always pack lightly
• Be most grateful for a warm and comfortable bed
• Most of us can live happily with a lot less
• Never take for granted the love and friendship of family and friends
• ... and always take care of your feet

Lynne, la peregrina.

A few days in Barcelona, then homeward bound Nov 18th.

Get Me to the Church On Time

Very close to the end now.
Just one more day -or rather, half a day - as tomorrow morning I expect to arrive in Santiago by noon to attend the pilgrim mass in the cathedral. To ensure I got a decent night's sleep I decided to book into a private Albergue - only a few euros more than the public one, which was very crowded.
This was modern and clean and lovely and just a few pilgrims, however by 8.00 at night I started to worry as the dorm was very cold and I did not feel any heat. Sometimes they don't turn the heat on until lights out (10.00) so I tried to remain hopeful, however by 9.30 I started to fear the worst.

Doing my now standard and practised shivering mode, I tried to find out from the owner of the Albergue, the situation re: heat. I pointed up at the heating vents all across the ceiling and did more shivering. The owner pointed up at the ceiling vents as well, jabbering madly in Spanish. What is he saying? The vents are broken? They won't be turned on? Or (more hopefully) they will be going on later?

However my hopes were completely dashed when he opened the outside door and fanned the air - still jabbering on in Spanish -which I find amazing, as he must know I can't understand a single word. So what is he telling me now? That it is not cold outside, hence no heat inside.
(Well, bloody right it's cold - both outside and in!!)... Or is he telling me to vamoose - hit the road?
Despairingly, I shiver one last time and return to the dorm, collecting as many blankets as I can, from uninhabited beds.

Not the best sleep I've ever had.
I actually yelled, "Shut up!!!" at a snorer, out of sheer frustration.

I decide to start early in the morning with a few other pilgrims, as you never know for sure how long the walk will take. It all depends on the quality and challenges of the Camino.
It was very dark when we left, and we had to use our flashlights to identify the arrows and shells that mark the way of the Camino. They seemed to lead us down a dark forest road that was shin deep in water and mud. There did not seem to be any way around it so we waded in, only to come to a dead end in about 10 minutes. Thoroughly soaked, we had to return the same way, and eventually found the correct Camino path.

I knew I had to put out a fair bit of speed now, as I was worried about getting to the church on time. I kept looking at my watch (or whats left of it - all the straps are gone) to check the time, but I still allowed myself 15 minutes for a coffee and a quick bite. I hurried along the trail accompanied by a light rain, but not too cold.

After you arrive at the outskirts of a city, it always seems to take an amazingly long time to get to the city center and today was no different.
I got to the Church 15 minutes late (exactly the time I had stopped for coffee), but I was still able to slip into the Mass, and missing the first 15 minutes didn't seem to matter because, of course, I understand nothing of what was being said - and I had arrived in true Pilgrim fashion: very dirty and somewhat tired...but exhilarated.
The Cathederal is incredibly massive and fantastic beyond belief. Built in 1211, it dominates the city to such an extent that its doors open out onto 3 separate city squares.The interior is just as overwhelming.

I didn't see any Pilgrims I knew so truthfully, I felt a little lonely and disappointed, as there was no one to celebrate with.
As I was getting up to leave I spotted the group that I had parted from early on, when I had decide to stay behind and be a bit of a tourist. I really liked this group (all quite young) and I had often wondered about them. I was thrilled to see them, and they seemed very happy to see me.

Gradually I spotted other pilgrims that I had met on the Camino. After catching up on the news, I went off to the Oficina del Peregrino to present my, now, well stamped pilgrim passport and receive my Compostela - final proof that I have completed the pilgrimage.

The group I had just reunited with asked me if I would like to find a place to stay with them, so we went on the hunt for something cheap, but acceptable.
The place we agreed on was like a university dorm. I truthfully wanted something a little more comfortable, but decided to spend the last night with them before we all parted and went our separate ways.

My last night as a pilgrim and, of course, there was no heat.

Melide to Arca (O Pedrouzo) - 34K

A gorgeous day, weather wonderful, and I'm back on the Camino trail, which wound through beautiful stone walled groves, forests and farmland.
The weather is definitely more pleasant here.
Although there are fall colours, I have spotted numerous palm trees and a lemon tree today (this is the Spain I meant to visit all along.)

The big news is this: tomorrow I arrive in Santiago!
I feel quite emotional about it for some reason, but filled with excitement and anticipation.
There is a pilgrim mass every day at noon in the cathedral, and it is customary for pilgrims to attend on the day they arrive (tired and dirty).

It's about 20 k, so I need to start early to be there on time.

Looking forward to telling you all about that.

Thanks for the latest postings from cousins Jim and Dawna, Vive, Cheryl, Kiwi and Andrea.
Yes, see you at Christmas Andrea!

Airexe to Melide - 23K

The walk seemed long today, but the weather was nice again. This area is really know for being rainy, but I have been super lucky so far, with the weather.

The big deal in Melide is to visit a pulperia - a restaurant that specializes in Octopus (pulpo: octopus.)
I dined with John from Australia and Donna from Calgary, whom I had met on the Camino before, but due to injuries, they had taken a bus for a few days, and were just now getting back on the road.

The Octopus was fantastic.
They are cooked whole, in big cauldrons, cut into bite sized pieces, drizzled with olive oil and Spanish paprika, then washed down with Ribeiro wine. There was also a really good salad and bread.

I decided, after checking into the run down, crowded and dingy Albergue, that I wanted some comfort and privacy, so I treated myself to a small hotel (sort of) across the street.
All in all a great evening.

Sarria to Airexe - 40K

Made a lot of headway today, but I choose to walk on main roads and even the hwy rather than submit my leg to the rough and unpredictable path of the Camino.
Regrettably, I missed out on several lovely villages and a much nicer walk by doing that, but my leg needed one more day on even ground.

I only have a few days to reach Santiago and I actually think I'll make it. Of course I have a new blister on the bottom of one of my toes, but I sneer at blisters now (I spit in your eye, you stupid blister).

I've been travelling pretty well alone the last few days. Some people went ahead, some are behind, but the expectation of most of us is that we will meet many fellow pilgrims in Santiago, as people tend to hang around there for a few days.

I'm in a nice clean and warm Albergue tonight -just one other woman, a Hungarian gal I've never encountered before, plus a nice little restaurant across the street.
It's all good!

Triacastela to Sarria - 23K

I took the long way to Sarria in order to visit the Monasterio de Samos.
I really argued with my leg about going, as there was a shorter route I could take and bypass the monastery. Fortunately my Sister-in-law - a Nurse - reminded me that icing was essential to help my leg heal. So today at each restaurant /rest stop I asked for ice and, eventually just put it under my tights, which held it in place, and I walked with it.
Made a huge difference.

My leg was so much better today, I contemplated going 30 k, but decided instead to stop early at a place where there was an Internet cafe, and where I could catch up on my blog. Unfortunately, shortly after I started, the cafe lost all their connections, so that was that.

I hope to get a few longer days in to make up some of the time I have lost, but I keep reminding myself, I'm not on a deadline.
The area I'm walking in now is a called Galicia - a rainy, but beautiful part of Spain. Wonderful countryside dotted with farms and paths lined with Chestnut trees. The Albergue I'm in tonight has a warm dorm and blankets, but they ran out of hot water after 2 showers, so no shower again today.

By the way, did I tell you I was attacked by bedbugs last week?
Fortunately, the itching has pretty well stopped.

O Cebreiro to Triacastela - 21K

[Previous two Posts Updated Nov 10, 2008, to show the correct sequence of events and locations. This Post is after the fact.]

Left O Cebreiro, surrounded by fog as we descended the mountain.
I had hoped to travel to Samos today (about 30k) to visit and stay at the famous Monasterio de Samos - a monastery founded in the 5th century - but my leg was really sore after the descent from O Cebreiro.
I'm holed up tonight in Triacastela at a warm Albergue and, while not a very warm shower area, the water, at least, is hot.
Most of the Pilgrims I have been with the last few days went ahead to Samos, as they wanted to stay in the monastery.
My book said it was damp and gloomy, so aside from the fact it was too far to walk, I no longer wish to be cold, however romantic the setting might be.

Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro - 27K

[Updated Nov 10, 2008]
Another long day.
Up hill mostly, to the top of a mountain, where rests the rainy, foggy hamlet of O Cebreiro.
Apparently, the view from this point down into the valley is fantastic, but as the fog seldom clears, who knows?
Despite the cold and rain, the dorm was well heated and I had the first really warm sleep in quite awhile.
Considering the weather, I want to know about all those commercials that talk about "Sunny Spain."
That must be another Spain.
Remind me to visit it next time.

Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo - 22K

[Updated Nov 10, 2008]
Weather much nicer today - and beautiful scenery - as we are back into a landscape of vineyards and rolling hills.
A very long day however as my leg was really sore, so it was slow going.
I did find a Farmacia that was open mid-afternoon, which was a miracle in itself, as they are never open - as a rule - until about 5:00 PM. I bought 600 mg of ibuprofen and washed the first one down with a glass of wine.
(I figured that was OK, as I was not going to be operating heavy machinery that day.)

I was walking alone and, by accident, I ended up on "The Lovely, Longer Camino road".
No, no, no - this I did not want, but I did not realize what I had done until I noticed that I was moving away from the village in the distance, rather than towards it - and consulting my map confirmed my worst fears.
There was no going back at this point, so I slogged on and took the liberty of frequently swearing and crying out loud, as there was no one to hear.
It took me forever to travel 22 k, which is usually not that bad for me, however my leg dictated my speed.

The Albergue at this stop was a funky, hippy sort of place, hosted by a young Spanish guy and German girl who cooked a communal meal for us.
This may not appeal to you, but we found it delicious.
We had a big crunchy salad with lots of veggies, garlic soup, bread, 2 fried eggs and a big platter of boiled potatoes and, something similar to Swiss Chard.
The table was very international - Swiss, German, Canadian, French Canadian (they always make the distinction), Croatian, Korean, American, Spanish, Italian. and Aussie.

On the Camino there is always an easy camaraderie, especially at meals.
No awkwardness, or feeling at all that you are with strangers. Everyone chats easily, with lots of pantomime gestures to get your point across.

The dorm was the usual set up - washrooms not exactly outside, but just as cold, so no shower for me. For some reason, even in a restaurant, the washrooms are never heated.

As pilgrims arrive in the dorm they are closely scrutinized for signs that they may be snorers. Middle aged men, people with pinched nostrils and thick lower lips (clear signs of a mouth breathers) are particularly suspect.
We have become so aggressive about this, that now, people are often challenged out-right and asked if they snore.
This night, a middle-aged Spanish guy looked like a possible hazard, so one of the women asked if he snored and he said, "mucho snoring." At that, one of the German girls asked him to move to another dorm and, when he smilingly refused, she unsmilingly said, "I kill you."

The Camino is definitely not for sissies.

P.S. The guy never snored once, as far as I know.

El Acebo to Ponferrada - 17K

Another short day.
I'm behind re: the schedule I had set out for myself, but sometimes there is no choice.

Quite a few of the Albergues close at the end of October and, because my book is not up to date with the most current info, I rely on the other Pilgrims - some of whom have very current lists.

As best we could tell, the next Albergue would have been a 41 K walk - a little too far in one day, given my ankle is still sore. I would need to walk about 37 K tomorrow to get myself somewhat back on my schedule, but I think I'll go for something a little less than that.

I need to head off to the bank now and hope that Visa will free up some money, but I'm not optimistic. It hasn't worked in the stores where I have tried to use it over the past few days.
If there is anything more frustrating than dealing with Visa while you are out of country, I want to know what that is.

Patti; Thanks for your note. So good to hear from you. Could we have a siblings dinner out before Christmas do you think? I would really look forward to that.
Dee; Your words of encouragement always appreciated.

Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo - 18 K

Today was a climb up over the Leon mountains (I think I referred to them as the Alps - wrong!), with the intention of travelling to Molinaseca - trek of about 26 kil.

I was slightly apprehensive about this, as there was talk we would run into snow, and we woke to howling winds and a great deal of fog.

By the way, the latest technique we are using for staying warm is to place a liberal layer of newspapers between our various tops. The backpack keeps your back warm, but the newspaper really helps cut the wind at the front.

The climb was not bad at all, but we did encounter both snow and rain.

Unfortunately, I turned my ankle ever so slightly on the wet stones, and so the walk was somewhat painful.

About 10 kil along, we came to the Cruz de Ferro -a massive pile of stones with an Iron Cross erected on top. An important Camino ritual is to lay a stone on the pile, to calm the mountain Gods, and ask for safe passage through the mountains.

Many Pilgrims bring a stone from home to place here, and others pick up ones along the way.

A few kilometres on marks the highest point of the Camino at 1517 M. The views are apparently stunning from here, but there was a blanket of fog over the entire valley so we never had the opportunity to appreciate them.

From there we headed to El Acebo and it started to rain heavily, with a brutally cold wind as we approached the village. As it was a steep downhill trek for another 8k to reach our intended destination, we decide to stay at the Albergue in El Acebo instead of continuing on.
I also thought I should not tax my ankle too much.

It had a warm and cosy bar at the front, a dining room and a dorm with blankets - heated (until midnight only). Sometimes it's the best you can do.

When we woke in the morning, it had snowed heavily in the night. It looked beautiful, as we looked out the window, to see the snow on the mountains and covering the slated rooftops.

The reality of walking in it wasn't so great.

Especially since none of us had packed for a winter trek.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino - 20K

Short walk again today and, despite the fact it is below zero now, the wind was not bad, so the walk was OK.
We have left the Meseta and are going to be starting to climb a section of the Alps tomorrow. There is lots more I would like to tell you about the area, but the Internet at this Albergue is outside in a courtyard and my fingers are falling off, so I need to make this brief.

Washing your clothes almost always takes place outside, in a courtyard as well, and the water is freezing cold. There are big signs always saying, you cannot wash them inside in the sink where there actually is warm water.
I'm down to one pair if underwear again. It's making me a little crazy, but I'm wondering if I lost them last night, moving dorms.
It would be a worthwhile sacrifice if someone had used them to try and strangle the snorer.

Gotta go - so cold.

In Astorga

Just a small note re: my bed mates last night.
Julian, the French Canadian guy, pointed out to me, just before bed, that the guy sleeping right next to me was the most renown snorer on the Camino and that he, Julian, was moving to another dorm they had just opened up, because he had been exposed to this guy's snoring before and he said it was deadly.
I decide to move to the new dorm as well, despite the fact that it meant a top bunk, and it seemed a little cooler than the original one.
It turned out to be a good decision.

I got up once in the night to use the washroom and there were serious Husqvarna sounds coming from the other dorm. Lots of grumbling from the other people the next morning, who had tried to sleep through the noise. I fear if I'd stayed in that dorm, my chapter today would be called, "Murder on the Camino."
By the way, re: a top bunk; beside the fact that I hate trying to get out of them during the night, there is nowhere to put the things you usually keep near the bed - your water and flashlight, your bag with Passport and money and my glasses. I just take everything to bed with me, keep my glasses on and hope that none of it falls out during the night - and that my glasses don't end up underneath me.

Villadangos del Páramo to Astorga - 27 K

I've noticed the interior of my shoes have started to disintegrate - especially at the heels, they are completely shredded. I hope this does not mean new blisters, as my feet are pretty well under control.
I hear that most Pilgrims carry duct tape, although I never knew why. Now I know that it's to keep your shoes together, or perhaps tape them to your feet - Lordy!!!

The Albergue here has heat, but the bunk beds are so close to each other, it's practically like sleeping in a double bed. I hope the person next to me does not snore and, at least, introduces themselves before we go to sleep.

Carolyn; So good to hear from you. Have a great time in Marco.
Darlene; Your favourite Refugio closes the end of October - probably means no heat there.
Pat; Glad you are enjoying the blog. Thanks for the note.
Laurie; I do have woollies - hat that is - and one I can even wear to bed.

León to Villadangos del Páramo - 20 K

My friend Pat Cooke sent me an email the other day, saying that my blog may influence others to take this trip, because it all sounds so quaint - and there's no denying this is quite an adventure, but make no mistake, there are some un-fun times on the Camino.
Yes indeed.

This day was one of them.
Although the walk was short - 20k - it seemed long because it ran alongside the Hwy, and it was like we had never left the city. Industrial, not so clean or pleasant to walk through. A very cold damp day, but fortunately, no rain until we were almost at our Albergue.

This Albergue had no heat whatsoever - Nada! - and it actually was colder inside then out.
We sat huddled in the main area with blankets around us, then decided to go to whatever local bar we could find and hang out as long as we could, before we had to go to bed.
When we got back around 8:00 PM, the woman who looks after the Albergue had brought some wood (6 sticks) for this makeshift fireplace, made from an oil drum with a chimney. It wasn't anywhere near the beds, so there was no chance we would actually have warmth in our sleeping quarters. (I should explain that the people who look after the Albergue are volunteers and they don't live there or, I guess, there would be some heat).

We - all 8 pilgrims in total - huddled around this oil drum with blankets around us (the Albergue did have quite a few blankets), and Julian commented that we were like hobos, on the road with all our worldly goods and leaning into an oil drum fire. We discussed the idea of burning the chairs after the wood was gone, and then someone suggested we roast a pilgrim.
There was a Spanish pilgrim who really kept to himself, so we thought he wouldn't be missed, plus, based on the Spanish diet, he is probably about 60% olive oil, which would provide a warm glowing fire all night.

As it turned out, I went to bed with most of my clothes on, my newly purchased winter toque and my gloves, and I piled on as many blankets as I could stand the weight of. I managed to fall asleep eventually, but I had to keep a blanket pulled over my face as well, because it was just so cold. (You do understand there is no showers or clothes washing happening these days.)
Don't think about it too much - I try not to.

Yes, a most un-fun day.

In León

Just a few more notes on León.
I did see the wonderful Cathedral, Gaudi's Palace and the Basilica de san Isidoro. We didn't have great luck finding a good tapas bar, which was disappointing. In Burgos they had many, and the long counter would contain 30 items or more of the most amazing looking stuff. Some of my favourites were grilled sardines, fat juicy artichokes wrapped with Serrano ham, small stuffed peppers, fabulous roasted mushrooms, etc.

The bar we settled on did have a good vibe and we fell into conversation with 2 Spanish girls at the next table. They had both worked in Ireland for 5 years so they spoke English with a strong Irish accent. When he heard us talking, a young man at another table joined in as well, and he was French, lived in Ireland, but was in Spain taking an art course, so he too spoke English with an Irish accent.
(It's a very small world)