My incredible journey ...

... ends here in Santaigo.
Walking the Camino de Santiago has been an amazing experience for me, with so many memories to hold on to.
I have been motivated, uplifted, and cheered beyond words by your interest, caring and kindness. Your continuous words of encouragement made a world of difference to me. I couldn't have done it without your help.

My most heartfelt thanks!!

Some things I know for sure.

• Be open to new adventure - even better, seek it out!
• Don't be afraid to go solo every now and then, it can be enriching and confidence building
• Never leave home without your 4 digit PIN ·number
• Always pack lightly
• Be most grateful for a warm and comfortable bed
• Most of us can live happily with a lot less
• Never take for granted the love and friendship of family and friends
• ... and always take care of your feet

Lynne, la peregrina.

A few days in Barcelona, then homeward bound Nov 18th.

Get Me to the Church On Time

Very close to the end now.
Just one more day -or rather, half a day - as tomorrow morning I expect to arrive in Santiago by noon to attend the pilgrim mass in the cathedral. To ensure I got a decent night's sleep I decided to book into a private Albergue - only a few euros more than the public one, which was very crowded.
This was modern and clean and lovely and just a few pilgrims, however by 8.00 at night I started to worry as the dorm was very cold and I did not feel any heat. Sometimes they don't turn the heat on until lights out (10.00) so I tried to remain hopeful, however by 9.30 I started to fear the worst.

Doing my now standard and practised shivering mode, I tried to find out from the owner of the Albergue, the situation re: heat. I pointed up at the heating vents all across the ceiling and did more shivering. The owner pointed up at the ceiling vents as well, jabbering madly in Spanish. What is he saying? The vents are broken? They won't be turned on? Or (more hopefully) they will be going on later?

However my hopes were completely dashed when he opened the outside door and fanned the air - still jabbering on in Spanish -which I find amazing, as he must know I can't understand a single word. So what is he telling me now? That it is not cold outside, hence no heat inside.
(Well, bloody right it's cold - both outside and in!!)... Or is he telling me to vamoose - hit the road?
Despairingly, I shiver one last time and return to the dorm, collecting as many blankets as I can, from uninhabited beds.

Not the best sleep I've ever had.
I actually yelled, "Shut up!!!" at a snorer, out of sheer frustration.

I decide to start early in the morning with a few other pilgrims, as you never know for sure how long the walk will take. It all depends on the quality and challenges of the Camino.
It was very dark when we left, and we had to use our flashlights to identify the arrows and shells that mark the way of the Camino. They seemed to lead us down a dark forest road that was shin deep in water and mud. There did not seem to be any way around it so we waded in, only to come to a dead end in about 10 minutes. Thoroughly soaked, we had to return the same way, and eventually found the correct Camino path.

I knew I had to put out a fair bit of speed now, as I was worried about getting to the church on time. I kept looking at my watch (or whats left of it - all the straps are gone) to check the time, but I still allowed myself 15 minutes for a coffee and a quick bite. I hurried along the trail accompanied by a light rain, but not too cold.

After you arrive at the outskirts of a city, it always seems to take an amazingly long time to get to the city center and today was no different.
I got to the Church 15 minutes late (exactly the time I had stopped for coffee), but I was still able to slip into the Mass, and missing the first 15 minutes didn't seem to matter because, of course, I understand nothing of what was being said - and I had arrived in true Pilgrim fashion: very dirty and somewhat tired...but exhilarated.
The Cathederal is incredibly massive and fantastic beyond belief. Built in 1211, it dominates the city to such an extent that its doors open out onto 3 separate city squares.The interior is just as overwhelming.

I didn't see any Pilgrims I knew so truthfully, I felt a little lonely and disappointed, as there was no one to celebrate with.
As I was getting up to leave I spotted the group that I had parted from early on, when I had decide to stay behind and be a bit of a tourist. I really liked this group (all quite young) and I had often wondered about them. I was thrilled to see them, and they seemed very happy to see me.

Gradually I spotted other pilgrims that I had met on the Camino. After catching up on the news, I went off to the Oficina del Peregrino to present my, now, well stamped pilgrim passport and receive my Compostela - final proof that I have completed the pilgrimage.

The group I had just reunited with asked me if I would like to find a place to stay with them, so we went on the hunt for something cheap, but acceptable.
The place we agreed on was like a university dorm. I truthfully wanted something a little more comfortable, but decided to spend the last night with them before we all parted and went our separate ways.

My last night as a pilgrim and, of course, there was no heat.

Melide to Arca (O Pedrouzo) - 34K

A gorgeous day, weather wonderful, and I'm back on the Camino trail, which wound through beautiful stone walled groves, forests and farmland.
The weather is definitely more pleasant here.
Although there are fall colours, I have spotted numerous palm trees and a lemon tree today (this is the Spain I meant to visit all along.)

The big news is this: tomorrow I arrive in Santiago!
I feel quite emotional about it for some reason, but filled with excitement and anticipation.
There is a pilgrim mass every day at noon in the cathedral, and it is customary for pilgrims to attend on the day they arrive (tired and dirty).

It's about 20 k, so I need to start early to be there on time.

Looking forward to telling you all about that.

Thanks for the latest postings from cousins Jim and Dawna, Vive, Cheryl, Kiwi and Andrea.
Yes, see you at Christmas Andrea!

Airexe to Melide - 23K

The walk seemed long today, but the weather was nice again. This area is really know for being rainy, but I have been super lucky so far, with the weather.

The big deal in Melide is to visit a pulperia - a restaurant that specializes in Octopus (pulpo: octopus.)
I dined with John from Australia and Donna from Calgary, whom I had met on the Camino before, but due to injuries, they had taken a bus for a few days, and were just now getting back on the road.

The Octopus was fantastic.
They are cooked whole, in big cauldrons, cut into bite sized pieces, drizzled with olive oil and Spanish paprika, then washed down with Ribeiro wine. There was also a really good salad and bread.

I decided, after checking into the run down, crowded and dingy Albergue, that I wanted some comfort and privacy, so I treated myself to a small hotel (sort of) across the street.
All in all a great evening.

Sarria to Airexe - 40K

Made a lot of headway today, but I choose to walk on main roads and even the hwy rather than submit my leg to the rough and unpredictable path of the Camino.
Regrettably, I missed out on several lovely villages and a much nicer walk by doing that, but my leg needed one more day on even ground.

I only have a few days to reach Santiago and I actually think I'll make it. Of course I have a new blister on the bottom of one of my toes, but I sneer at blisters now (I spit in your eye, you stupid blister).

I've been travelling pretty well alone the last few days. Some people went ahead, some are behind, but the expectation of most of us is that we will meet many fellow pilgrims in Santiago, as people tend to hang around there for a few days.

I'm in a nice clean and warm Albergue tonight -just one other woman, a Hungarian gal I've never encountered before, plus a nice little restaurant across the street.
It's all good!

Triacastela to Sarria - 23K

I took the long way to Sarria in order to visit the Monasterio de Samos.
I really argued with my leg about going, as there was a shorter route I could take and bypass the monastery. Fortunately my Sister-in-law - a Nurse - reminded me that icing was essential to help my leg heal. So today at each restaurant /rest stop I asked for ice and, eventually just put it under my tights, which held it in place, and I walked with it.
Made a huge difference.

My leg was so much better today, I contemplated going 30 k, but decided instead to stop early at a place where there was an Internet cafe, and where I could catch up on my blog. Unfortunately, shortly after I started, the cafe lost all their connections, so that was that.

I hope to get a few longer days in to make up some of the time I have lost, but I keep reminding myself, I'm not on a deadline.
The area I'm walking in now is a called Galicia - a rainy, but beautiful part of Spain. Wonderful countryside dotted with farms and paths lined with Chestnut trees. The Albergue I'm in tonight has a warm dorm and blankets, but they ran out of hot water after 2 showers, so no shower again today.

By the way, did I tell you I was attacked by bedbugs last week?
Fortunately, the itching has pretty well stopped.

O Cebreiro to Triacastela - 21K

[Previous two Posts Updated Nov 10, 2008, to show the correct sequence of events and locations. This Post is after the fact.]

Left O Cebreiro, surrounded by fog as we descended the mountain.
I had hoped to travel to Samos today (about 30k) to visit and stay at the famous Monasterio de Samos - a monastery founded in the 5th century - but my leg was really sore after the descent from O Cebreiro.
I'm holed up tonight in Triacastela at a warm Albergue and, while not a very warm shower area, the water, at least, is hot.
Most of the Pilgrims I have been with the last few days went ahead to Samos, as they wanted to stay in the monastery.
My book said it was damp and gloomy, so aside from the fact it was too far to walk, I no longer wish to be cold, however romantic the setting might be.